
Chef Graziella
Pane Siciliano con Sesamo
The sesame-crusted bread of Sicily, where Arab traders left their mark on Italian tables centuries ago. Golden semolina dough beneath a generous blanket of toasted seeds.
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The sesame-crusted bread of Palermo, soft as a whisper and covered in seeds that toast golden in the oven. These are the rolls Sicilians break for their beloved dead and for their living families.
In Palermo, on the second of November, the dead return to bring gifts to children and bread returns to the table in this form: round, soft, golden with sesame. Muffuletta is not bread you slice. It is bread you tear, bread you stuff, bread you share with those who gathered to remember.
The dough is simple. Flour, water, yeast, a touch of olive oil for tenderness. What makes muffuletta muffuletta is the sesame. You press the shaped rounds into a plate of seeds so thick they coat the surface completely. When the bread bakes, the seeds toast and perfume the kitchen with that unmistakable nutty warmth.
Sicilian bakers use semolina in their bread doughs, as southern Italian bakers have done for centuries. The durum wheat gives structure and a faint golden color to the crumb. Do not substitute. The flour matters. The time matters. The bread emerges from the oven and must cool before eating, though the temptation to tear one open immediately will be considerable.
Muffuletta belongs to the Festa dei Morti traditions of Palermo, where November 2nd brings families to cemeteries bearing flowers and returns them home bearing bread. Sicilian bakers shaped these soft rounds for centuries before Sicilian immigrants carried the tradition to New Orleans, where the bread found a second life beneath layers of cured meats and olive salad.
Quantity
400g (about 3 cups)
Quantity
100g (about 2/3 cup)
Quantity
10g (about 1 1/2 teaspoons)
Quantity
7g (about 2 1/4 teaspoons)
Quantity
10g (about 2 teaspoons)
Quantity
300ml (about 1 1/4 cups)
38°C/100°F
Quantity
30ml (about 2 tablespoons)
Quantity
150g (about 1 cup)
for coating
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| bread flour | 400g (about 3 cups) |
| fine semolina | 100g (about 2/3 cup) |
| fine sea salt | 10g (about 1 1/2 teaspoons) |
| instant yeast | 7g (about 2 1/4 teaspoons) |
| sugar | 10g (about 2 teaspoons) |
| warm water38°C/100°F | 300ml (about 1 1/4 cups) |
| extra virgin olive oil | 30ml (about 2 tablespoons) |
| sesame seedsfor coating | 150g (about 1 cup) |
In a large bowl, whisk together the bread flour, semolina, salt, yeast, and sugar. Make a well in the center. Pour in the warm water and olive oil. Stir with a wooden spoon until a shaggy dough forms and no dry flour remains. The dough will be slightly sticky. This is correct.
Turn the dough onto a clean work surface. Knead for 10 minutes, pushing with the heel of your hand, folding, turning. The dough will become smooth, supple, and slightly tacky but not sticky. It should spring back when pressed. If your arms tire, you are doing it correctly.
Shape the dough into a ball and place it in a lightly oiled bowl. Cover with a clean kitchen towel or plastic wrap. Let rise in a warm place until doubled in size, about 1 to 1 1/2 hours. The dough is ready when you press it with a floured finger and the indent remains.
Turn the risen dough onto your work surface. Do not punch it down violently. Press gently to release the largest air bubbles. Divide into 8 equal pieces, about 100g each. Shape each piece into a tight ball: cup your hand over the dough and move it in small circles against the work surface until the ball is smooth and round with surface tension.
Pour the sesame seeds into a shallow bowl. Fill another shallow bowl with room temperature water. Working with one ball at a time: dip the top of the dough ball into the water, shake off excess, then press the wet side firmly into the sesame seeds. The seeds should coat the surface completely. Place seed-side up on a parchment-lined baking sheet, spacing rolls 3 inches apart.
Cover the shaped rolls loosely with a kitchen towel. Let rise until puffy and nearly doubled, 45 minutes to 1 hour. The rolls should look soft and pillowy. While they rise, position a rack in the center of the oven and heat to 200°C (400°F).
Bake the rolls for 22 to 25 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through, until the sesame seeds are golden and the rolls sound hollow when tapped on the bottom. The crust should be firm but not hard. The interior will be soft.
Transfer the rolls to a wire rack to cool completely before eating. The interior structure needs time to set. Patience. I know the smell makes this difficult. Tear them open when cool and stuff with mortadella and provolone, or with panelle and a squeeze of lemon. Or eat them plain with good butter. They are worthy of all three.
1 roll (about 110g)
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