
Chef Klaus
Allgäuer Krautkrapfen
The Allgäu pan dish that makes a meal from noodle dough, winter kraut, onion, and fat: brown the cut sides first, then cook gently so the rolls hold.
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Munich's butcher's-table beef, drawn gently in broth and served pink, with sharp horseradish doing the work that gravy would only spoil.
Münchner Kronfleisch belongs to the Wirtshaus table and the butcher's day, not to the roast platter. It is beef from the diaphragm, coarse-grained, dark, and full of flavour because the animal used that muscle. Weggeworfen wird nichts. The old kitchens knew the parts around the ribs and organs were not second-rate if you cooked them according to their nature.
In Munich you draw it gently in hot broth and serve it pink with grated horseradish, chives, and a pickle. In Austria and parts of Franconia you'll see similar cuts grilled or stewed longer; in the north they would sooner put the beef into a different pot entirely. Im Norden anders, im Süden anders. This one is Munich, plain and sharp, and Das ist kein Bierzelt.
The technique is the whole dish: never let the broth boil hard once the meat is in. A rolling boil tightens the diaphragm and turns a good cut into a grey rope. Keep it just below the boil, where the surface trembles, and the meat stays rosy, tender, and clean-tasting. Then slice across the grain, not with it, because this muscle has long fibres and your knife has to shorten them for the teeth.
Serve it the moment it's sliced. Horseradish at the table, pickle beside it, broth in the bowl or spooned over. Nicht aus dem Glas, if you can grate the root fresh. It takes two minutes and wakes the whole plate.
Kronfleisch is the Bavarian and Austrian name for beef diaphragm, a cut long tied to slaughterhouse and Wirtshaus cooking because it came from the animal's working middle rather than the prestige roast joints. Munich's nineteenth-century beer halls and butcher inns helped keep dishes like Kronfleisch in public view, turning what had been a butcher's portion into a city specialty served quickly with broth, horseradish, and bread. The name is commonly linked to the way the diaphragm sits like a crown around the inside of the rib cage, which is more anatomy than poetry, and more useful for cooking.
Quantity
800g
trimmed of heavy membrane
Quantity
1.5 litres
preferably made from bones
Quantity
1
halved
Quantity
1
roughly chopped
Quantity
1 small piece
roughly chopped
Quantity
1
well washed and roughly chopped
Quantity
2
Quantity
6
Quantity
4
lightly crushed
Quantity
1 teaspoon, plus more to taste
Quantity
80g
peeled
Quantity
1 small bunch
finely snipped
Quantity
4
Quantity
to serve
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| beef Kronfleisch, skirt or diaphragmtrimmed of heavy membrane | 800g |
| beef brothpreferably made from bones | 1.5 litres |
| onionhalved | 1 |
| carrotroughly chopped | 1 |
| celeriacroughly chopped | 1 small piece |
| leekwell washed and roughly chopped | 1 |
| bay leaves | 2 |
| black peppercorns | 6 |
| juniper berrieslightly crushed | 4 |
| salt | 1 teaspoon, plus more to taste |
| fresh horseradish rootpeeled | 80g |
| chivesfinely snipped | 1 small bunch |
| sour pickles | 4 |
| dark rye bread | to serve |
Trim off any thick silver skin or heavy membrane, but don't shave the meat bare. A little fat carries flavour into the broth, and this cut is lean enough without making it mean. If your butcher gives you a long piece, cut it into two shorter lengths so it sits flat in the pot and cooks evenly.
Put the broth, onion, carrot, celeriac, leek, bay, peppercorns, juniper, and salt into a wide pot and bring it to a gentle simmer for 15 minutes. This seasons the liquid before the beef goes in, so the meat takes flavour from the first minute instead of only getting salted at the end.
Lower the Kronfleisch into the hot broth and immediately runter mit der Temperatur, down with the temperature. Keep the liquid just trembling, not boiling, for 18 to 25 minutes, depending on thickness, until the centre is still pink and the meat feels springy. A hard boil tightens the long fibres and leaves you chewing your own impatience.
While the meat draws, grate the horseradish fresh and keep it covered until serving. Fresh Kren, horseradish, is sharp because its bite is released when the root is cut; grate it too early and it fades. Nicht aus dem Glas, unless the root is truly out of reach.
Lift the meat out, rest it for 3 minutes, then slice it thinly across the grain. Look at the fibres before you cut. If you slice with them, every piece eats stringy; cut across them and the same meat turns tender under the knife.
Lay the slices in shallow warm bowls or on a plain plate, spoon over a little hot broth, and finish with chives. Serve the grated horseradish, sour pickles, and rye bread beside it. Taste the broth before it goes out, because Würzen, Fett, Salz zum Schluss means the final salt belongs to the cook, not the recipe card.
1 serving (about 650g)
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