
Chef Graziella
Baci di Dama
Piedmont's famous hazelnut cookies, each one small as a walnut and twice as fragile. Two tender domes joined by a whisper of dark chocolate, named for how they resemble lips meeting in a kiss.
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The ancient spice cookies of Naples, shaped like diamonds and cloaked in dark chocolate. Every Neapolitan nonna makes these for Christmas, and now you will too.
Mostaccioli are not cookies in the American sense. They are not soft, not chewy, not designed to be grabbed by the handful. They are firm, aromatic, and meant to be eaten slowly with coffee or a glass of sweet wine. The spices announce themselves immediately: cinnamon, cloves, a whisper of black pepper. Then the dark chocolate coating, bittersweet and thin. This is a cookie for adults.
The dough contains no butter, no eggs. Honey binds everything together, as it has for centuries. The almonds are ground fine and folded in with candied orange peel, cocoa powder, and enough flour to bring the dough together. You roll it, cut it into diamonds, and bake until firm. The cookies should not spread. They should hold their shape with dignity.
Every family in Naples has a version. Some add espresso powder. Some use ammonia bicarbonate for a particular crispness that baking powder cannot replicate. Some insist on candied citron rather than orange. All agree that the chocolate glaze must be dark, thin, and allowed to set properly before the cookies are stacked. This is not optional. Unglazed mostaccioli are incomplete.
The name derives from the Latin 'mustaceum,' a Roman wedding cake sweetened with grape must. Medieval Neapolitan convents transformed the recipe, substituting honey and adding the spices that arrived through Naples' busy port. The dark chocolate glaze appeared in the 18th century when chocolate became accessible to common kitchens, and the diamond shape became standardized for Christmas markets.
Quantity
300g (2 1/3 cups)
Quantity
150g (1 cup)
finely ground
Quantity
30g (1/4 cup)
Quantity
200g (generous 1/2 cup)
Quantity
100g (1/2 cup)
Quantity
80g (1/3 cup)
minced fine
Quantity
1 1/2 teaspoons
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
freshly grated
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
freshly ground
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
pinch
Quantity
60ml (1/4 cup)
at room temperature
Quantity
200g (7 ounces)
finely chopped
Quantity
1 tablespoon
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| all-purpose flour | 300g (2 1/3 cups) |
| blanched almondsfinely ground | 150g (1 cup) |
| Dutch-process cocoa powder | 30g (1/4 cup) |
| honey | 200g (generous 1/2 cup) |
| granulated sugar | 100g (1/2 cup) |
| candied orange peelminced fine | 80g (1/3 cup) |
| ground cinnamon | 1 1/2 teaspoons |
| ground cloves | 1/2 teaspoon |
| nutmegfreshly grated | 1/4 teaspoon |
| black pepperfreshly ground | 1/4 teaspoon |
| baking powder | 1/2 teaspoon |
| fine sea salt | pinch |
| waterat room temperature | 60ml (1/4 cup) |
| bittersweet chocolate (70% cacao)finely chopped | 200g (7 ounces) |
| vegetable oil | 1 tablespoon |
In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, ground almonds, cocoa powder, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, black pepper, baking powder, and salt. The mixture should be uniform in color. Set aside.
In a small saucepan, combine the honey and sugar. Warm over low heat, stirring constantly, until the sugar dissolves completely and the mixture is fluid and smooth. Do not let it boil. Remove from heat and stir in the minced candied orange peel.
Pour the warm honey mixture into the dry ingredients. Add the water. Stir with a wooden spoon until a rough dough forms, then turn it onto a work surface and knead briefly until smooth. The dough will be dense and slightly sticky. If it clings too aggressively to your hands, add flour one tablespoon at a time. If it crumbles, add water one teaspoon at a time. Wrap tightly in plastic and let rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.
Heat the oven to 170°C (340°F). Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough to a thickness of 8mm (about 1/3 inch). It should be even throughout. Using a sharp knife, cut into diamond shapes approximately 6cm (2 1/2 inches) long. Transfer to the prepared baking sheets, leaving 2cm between each cookie. They will not spread, but they need air circulation.
Bake for 18 to 20 minutes, rotating the pans halfway through. The cookies are done when they are firm to the touch and slightly darker at the edges. They will still feel soft when hot but will harden as they cool. Transfer the pans to wire racks and let the cookies cool completely. This takes at least 45 minutes. Do not attempt to glaze warm cookies.
Place the finely chopped chocolate and vegetable oil in a heatproof bowl set over a pot of barely simmering water. The bowl must not touch the water. Stir constantly until the chocolate is completely melted and smooth. Remove from heat. The glaze should be fluid enough to coat easily but not so thin that it runs off the cookies.
Set a wire rack over a sheet of parchment to catch drips. Working with one cookie at a time, dip the top surface into the melted chocolate, letting the excess drip back into the bowl. Place chocolate side up on the rack. Alternatively, use a small offset spatula to spread a thin layer of chocolate across the top of each cookie. The coating should be even and thin, not thick and gloppy.
Allow the glazed cookies to sit at room temperature until the chocolate is completely set and no longer tacky, at least one hour. In warm kitchens, you may refrigerate them briefly, but return to room temperature before storing. Stack in a tin with parchment between layers.
1 serving (about 28g)
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