Monjayaki (もんじゃ焼き)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Tabletop teppan, or a broad electric griddle
• •Two metal spatulas for chopping and shaping
• •Tiny hagashi spatulas, or small metal offset spatulas
• •Fine-mesh strainer lined with cloth

Instructions

1. 1

   Make the dashi

   Wipe the konbu with a damp cloth, but don't wash it. Put it in the cold water and warm it slowly over low heat. Pull the konbu when the water trembles and small bubbles climb the sides, before it boils. Boiling konbu pulls out bitterness and a slick texture, and monjayaki needs a clean, light base because the griddle will concentrate everything.

2. 2

   Steep the flakes

   Bring the water just to a gentle boil, add the katsuobushi all at once, and take the pot off the heat. Let the flakes sink for two or three minutes, then strain through a cloth or fine strainer without pressing. Don't squeeze. Pressing gives you harsh, oily flavor, and this dish already has enough cheerful noise from the griddle.

   You need 1 3/4 cups dashi for the batter. If you have a little extra, keep it for loosening the batter at the table.
3. 3

   Mix the batter

   Whisk the flour with a splash of cooled dashi until smooth, then whisk in the remaining dashi, chūnō sauce, soy sauce, mirin, and salt. The batter should be much thinner than pancake batter, closer to a cloudy broth. That looseness is honmono here. It lets the cabbage and seafood season the whole pan instead of sitting inside a heavy cake.

4. 4

   Add the solids

   Put the cabbage, squid, sakura ebi, tenkasu, beni shōga, and scallions into the bowl with the batter, but don't stir everything together into one thick mass. Lift the solids out with a slotted spoon when you cook, leaving most of the liquid behind. The dry first cook sweetens the cabbage and firms the squid before the broth arrives.

5. 5

   Cook the filling

   Heat a tabletop teppan or electric griddle to medium-high and oil it lightly. Lift the solids onto the griddle, letting the thin batter drain back into the bowl. Chop and turn the mixture with metal spatulas for three to four minutes, until the cabbage softens, the squid turns opaque, and the dried shrimp smells warm and sweet. Keep it moving now because you want fragrance and tenderness, not scorching.

6. 6

   Build the ring

   Shape the cooked filling into a wide, low ring with an empty center, pressing the wall firmly so it has no gaps. This is the dote, the little embankment. It isn't decoration. It is the pan you build from the food itself, and it holds the batter where it can thicken instead of running across the griddle.

7. 7

   Pour and thicken

   Stir the batter in the bowl, then pour half into the center of the ring. When it bubbles and thickens at the edges, about one minute, pour in the rest. Use the spatulas to nudge any leaks back inside. The flour settles quickly, so stirring just before pouring keeps the center from turning watery on top and pasty at the bottom.

8. 8

   Mix and spread

   When the center looks glossy and thick, chop the ring into it and spread everything into a thin, even layer. Don't mound it. A thin layer gives you the two pleasures of monjayaki: a soft, seasoned middle and crisp browned bits where the batter meets the iron.

9. 9

   Finish and eat

   Scatter aonori and a few katsuobushi flakes over the top. Let the bottom set for a minute, then scrape small bites with tiny spatulas, pressing each bite briefly against the griddle so it catches and browns. Eat as it cooks. The best piece is the one that has just decided to let go.

Chef Tips

• •Use fresh squid that smells clean and faintly sweet, never strongly fishy. If the squid at the counter is tired, choose small shrimp instead and cook them briefly. Nothing hidden under sauce.
• •The batter must look alarmingly thin. If it looks sensible, it is probably too thick. Monjayaki thickens on the griddle, where the cabbage juices, dashi, flour, and browned bits meet.
• •The authentic tool is a tabletop teppan and tiny hagashi spatulas for scraping. A broad electric griddle and small metal offset spatulas work at home, as long as the surface holds steady heat.
• •Keep the filling chopped fine. Large cabbage pieces tear the ring open, and large seafood pieces overcook before the batter has thickened. Small cuts make the dish easy to gather.

Advance Preparation

• •The dashi can be made one day ahead and kept refrigerated. Bring it back to room temperature before mixing the batter so the flour disperses evenly.
• •The cabbage, squid, scallions, and beni shōga can be cut a few hours ahead and kept separately chilled. Mix them with the batter only when you are ready to cook.
• •Monjayaki is not a make-ahead dish once it hits the griddle. Its pleasure is the slow scraping at the table, so prepare the parts early and cook it in front of your guests.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 210g)