
Chef Lupita
Adobo Costeño para Pescado a la Talla
Guerrero's coast gives this adobo its authority: guajillo, pasilla mexicano, morita, chile costeño, garlic, vinegar, and fire, ground into the paste that belongs on butterflied fish.
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Guerrero's Costa Chica mole verde uses toasted cacahuate instead of pepita, with tomatillo, hoja santa, and serrano blended into a green sauce built for chicken, pork, or vegetables.
Guerrero, especially the Costa Chica running toward Oaxaca, has a green mole that does not behave like Puebla's or Oaxaca's. This one leans on cacahuate, toasted peanut, not pumpkin seed. That is the first thing to understand. Cada estado, su propia cocina.
The tomatillo gives the sauce its clean acidity. The hoja santa gives it that anise-green depth that tells you this is southern Mexico. The peanut gives body, sweetness, and the afromestizo memory of the coast, where African, Indigenous, and Spanish kitchens learned to speak through the same clay cazuela. I have eaten versions near Cuajinicuilapa where the sauce was loose enough to spoon over chicken and versions inland near Chilpancingo thick enough to hold a trail from the wooden spoon. Both belonged to Guerrero.
Toast the cacahuate until it smells warm and nutty. Roast the tomatillos until they slump and spot. Fry the blended sauce in manteca de cerdo. Yes, manteca. Oil will cook it, but lard gives the sauce its roundness. No me vengas con atajos. A blender is fine here. Skipping the frying is not. The frying is where the raw green paste becomes mole.
Peanut-based sauces in Guerrero and the Costa Chica belong to a wider Afro-Mexican cooking grammar that connects African peanut stews, including mafe, with New Spain's local chiles, tomatillos, herbs, and clay-pot techniques. In the Pacific coast communities of Guerrero and Oaxaca, cacahuate and ajonjoli became central thickeners in encacahuatados, pipianes costeños, and table salsas, alongside Indigenous ingredients like hoja santa and miltomate. This mole verde is not a pumpkin-seed pipian with peanuts added; it is a Guerrero sauce shaped by coastal afromestizo kitchens.
Quantity
1 cup
preferably skinless
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 1/2 pounds
husked and rinsed
Quantity
1/2 medium
thickly sliced
Quantity
4
unpeeled
Quantity
3 to 4
stemmed
Quantity
1
stemmed and seeded
Quantity
2 cups
warm, divided
Quantity
1 packed cup
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
3 large
center rib removed and torn
Quantity
1 small sprig
leaves only
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 1/2 teaspoons, plus more to taste
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| raw unsalted peanutspreferably skinless | 1 cup |
| sesame seeds | 2 tablespoons |
| tomatilloshusked and rinsed | 1 1/2 pounds |
| white onionthickly sliced | 1/2 medium |
| garlic clovesunpeeled | 4 |
| fresh chile serranostemmed | 3 to 4 |
| dried chile costeñostemmed and seeded | 1 |
| chicken broth or vegetable brothwarm, divided | 2 cups |
| cilantro leaves and tender stems | 1 packed cup |
| fresh parsley leaves | 1/2 cup |
| hoja santa leavescenter rib removed and torn | 3 large |
| epazoteleaves only | 1 small sprig |
| dried Mexican oregano | 1/2 teaspoon |
| ground cumin | 1/4 teaspoon |
| manteca de cerdo | 2 tablespoons |
| kosher salt | 1 1/2 teaspoons, plus more to taste |
Heat a dry comal or heavy skillet over medium. Toast the peanuts, stirring constantly, until they turn golden in spots and smell warm, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the sesame seeds for the last minute only. They should turn pale gold, not brown. Scrape everything into a bowl so the heat of the comal does not keep cooking them.
On the same comal, roast the tomatillos, onion, garlic, and chile serrano. Turn them as they blister. The tomatillos should soften and collapse at the edges, the onion should char in patches, and the garlic should feel soft inside its skin. This roasting pulls sweetness out of the vegetables. Raw tomatillo makes a sharp sauce. Roasted tomatillo makes mole.
Toast the dried chile costeño for 10 to 15 seconds per side, just until fragrant. Do not blacken it. This chile is from the coast and it brings a small fruitiness and heat that serrano alone cannot give. Cover it with hot water for 10 minutes, then drain it.
Peel the roasted garlic. Put the peanuts, sesame, tomatillos, onion, garlic, serranos, soaked chile costeño, and 1 cup warm broth into a blender. Blend longer than you think you need, until the peanut is completely smooth and the sauce looks thick and pale green. If the blender struggles, add a little more broth. Just enough to move the blades.
Add the cilantro, parsley, hoja santa, epazote, Mexican oregano, cumin, and salt. Blend again until the sauce turns a deeper green and no large herb pieces remain. Do not boil these herbs in the blender with hot liquid. Warm broth is enough. Boiling heat dulls the green and flattens the hoja santa.
Melt the manteca de cerdo in a 12-inch clay cazuela or heavy pot over medium heat. Pour in the blended sauce carefully. It will sputter. Stir with a wooden spoon for 8 to 10 minutes, until the sauce darkens slightly, thickens, and the raw tomatillo smell disappears. La manteca es el sabor, and this frying is where the sauce becomes serious.
Add the remaining broth little by little until the mole reaches the texture you want: spoonable for chicken or pork, looser for vegetables, thicker if you are using it as a table sauce. Simmer gently for 20 minutes, stirring often so the peanut does not catch on the bottom. Taste for salt. The sauce should be green, nutty, lightly tangy, and grounded by the hoja santa.
Serve warm from the cazuela over poached chicken, pork ribs, roasted squash, or quelites. If making ahead, cool it completely and refrigerate. Reheat gently with a splash of broth. Peanut mole thickens as it rests. That is normal. Recetas probadas y garantizadas.
1 serving (about 180g)
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