
Chef Lupita
Berenjenas a la Veracruzana
Veracruz's Gulf coast eggplant stew, built with jitomate, green olive, caper, bay leaf, and chile jalapeno en escabeche, the Spanish port pantry meeting the Mexican home pot.
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Central Veracruz's celebration mole from Xico, dark with mulato, ancho, pasilla, chipotle, fried plantain, sesame, almonds, raisins, and chocolate, served over turkey for feast days.
Veracruz, the central mountain region around Xico, owns this mole. Not the port, not the north, not the whole country in one lazy sentence. Xico sits near Xalapa, in coffee country, where the air is damp, the market smells of hoja santa and roasted chile, and feast food has to feed a table that keeps growing.
Mole de Xico is dark because of chile mulato, chile ancho, chile pasilla mexicano, and chipotle meco, toasted properly and fried with plantain, sesame, almonds, peanuts, raisins, bread, tortilla, spices, and chocolate. The chocolate is not the dish. It is one voice in the pot. If someone tells you mole is chocolate sauce, send them to wash the comal and start again.
I learned this version from a woman near the Xico market during the July celebrations for Santa Maria Magdalena. She used turkey because celebration food in Veracruz still remembers guajolote, not boneless chicken breast from a tray. She fried every element in manteca de cerdo and watched the cazuela like it owed her money. That is the discipline. Cada estado, su propia cocina.
Make it the day before if you can. Mole needs time to settle into itself. Recetas probadas y garantizadas, but only if you respect the order: toast, soak, fry, blend, strain, fry again, simmer. Así se hace y punto.
Mole de Xico is tied to the town of Xico in central Veracruz, especially to feast tables during the July celebrations honoring Santa Maria Magdalena, when families prepare large cazuelas for visitors. The sauce reflects Veracruz's inland and coastal history at once: native chiles and turkey, Spanish-introduced almonds, sesame, wheat bread, cinnamon, cloves, and the sweet-salty habits that also mark the state's olive and caper dishes. Unlike Puebla's mole poblano or Oaxaca's mole negro, Mole de Xico is known for a sweeter dark profile built from dried chiles, fried fruit, nuts, seeds, and chocolate without becoming a dessert sauce.
Quantity
about 6 pounds total
kept in large pieces
Quantity
1 large
quartered
Quantity
1
halved crosswise
Quantity
3
Quantity
2 sprigs
Quantity
1 tablespoon, plus more to taste
Quantity
12
stemmed and seeded
Quantity
8
stemmed and seeded
Quantity
6
stemmed and seeded
Quantity
3
stemmed
Quantity
1/2 cup, plus 2 tablespoons
extra reserved for serving
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
1/3 cup
Quantity
1/3 cup
Quantity
1
peeled and sliced into thick coins
Quantity
1
torn into pieces
Quantity
1
sliced
Quantity
3
halved
Quantity
1 medium
thickly sliced
Quantity
6
unpeeled
Quantity
1/2 cup
divided
Quantity
3 ounces
chopped
Quantity
2 tablespoons
grated, or use dark brown sugar
Quantity
1 stick, about 3 inches
Quantity
4
Quantity
6
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1 small
Quantity
2 tablespoons
drained, for the table
Quantity
1 tablespoon
drained, for the table
Quantity
for serving
Quantity
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| turkey breast with bone and turkey legskept in large pieces | about 6 pounds total |
| white onion for brothquartered | 1 large |
| head of garlichalved crosswise | 1 |
| bay leaves | 3 |
| fresh thyme | 2 sprigs |
| kosher salt | 1 tablespoon, plus more to taste |
| dried chile anchostemmed and seeded | 12 |
| dried chile mulatostemmed and seeded | 8 |
| dried chile pasilla mexicanostemmed and seeded | 6 |
| dried chile chipotle mecostemmed | 3 |
| sesame seedsextra reserved for serving | 1/2 cup, plus 2 tablespoons |
| whole almonds | 1/2 cup |
| raw peanuts | 1/3 cup |
| raisins | 1/3 cup |
| ripe plantainpeeled and sliced into thick coins | 1 |
| corn tortillatorn into pieces | 1 |
| bolillo or telera rollsliced | 1 |
| jitomates de bolahalved | 3 |
| white onion for saucethickly sliced | 1 medium |
| garlic clovesunpeeled | 6 |
| manteca de cerdodivided | 1/2 cup |
| Mexican dark chocolatechopped | 3 ounces |
| piloncillograted, or use dark brown sugar | 2 tablespoons |
| Mexican cinnamon stick | 1 stick, about 3 inches |
| whole cloves | 4 |
| black peppercorns | 6 |
| anise seed | 1/2 teaspoon |
| dried Mexican oregano | 1/2 teaspoon |
| hoja santa (acuyo) leaf (optional) | 1 small |
| green olives (optional)drained, for the table | 2 tablespoons |
| capers (optional)drained, for the table | 1 tablespoon |
| warm corn tortillas (optional) | for serving |
| black beans from the pot (optional) | for serving |
Put the turkey breast and legs in a large pot with the quartered onion, halved garlic head, bay leaves, thyme, salt, and enough cold water to cover by two inches. Bring to a gentle simmer, skim the gray foam, then cook partly covered for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, until the legs are tender and the breast registers 160F. Lift the turkey out and cover it. Strain and reserve the broth. That broth is the backbone of the mole.
Heat a dry comal over medium. Toast the ancho, mulato, pasilla, and chipotle meco separately, a few seconds per side, until they darken slightly, puff, and smell deep, not burned. The pasilla is thin. Watch it like a serious cook. Put the toasted chiles in a bowl and cover with hot water for 25 minutes.
Toast the sesame seeds on the comal until golden and fragrant, shaking constantly. Set aside. Toast the almonds and peanuts until their edges smell nutty and warm. Do not walk away. Burned sesame turns the whole cazuela bitter, and no amount of chocolate will save it.
Melt 3 tablespoons manteca de cerdo in a wide skillet. Fry the plantain coins until browned on both sides, then remove them. Fry the raisins just until they puff, a few seconds. Fry the tortilla pieces and bolillo slices until golden. La manteca es el sabor. Oil will cook them, but lard gives the mole its Veracruz body.
On the same comal, roast the jitomates de bola, sliced onion, and unpeeled garlic until the tomato skins blister, the onion has dark edges, and the garlic softens inside its skin. Peel the garlic. This is not decoration. Those browned edges are flavor you need later.
Toast the cinnamon stick, cloves, peppercorns, anise seed, and Mexican oregano for less than one minute, just until fragrant. Grind them in a spice mill or molcajete. Xico's mole is sweet, dark, and perfumed, not a chocolate sauce. The spices carry that line.
Drain the soaked chiles. Blend them in batches with the roasted jitomates, onion, garlic, toasted sesame, almonds, peanuts, fried plantain, raisins, tortilla, bolillo, ground spices, and enough turkey broth to keep the blades moving. Blend longer than feels necessary. You want a smooth paste, not gritty chile soup. Strain through a medium or fine sieve if your blender leaves skins behind.
Melt the remaining manteca in a heavy clay cazuela or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the mole paste carefully. It will sputter, because it is alive with chile and broth. Stir with a wooden spoon for 20 to 25 minutes, scraping the bottom, until the paste darkens, thickens, and the fat begins to shine at the edges. No me vengas con atajos. This frying is where mole becomes mole.
Add 5 to 6 cups reserved turkey broth, one cup at a time, stirring until the sauce loosens to the texture of heavy cream. Add the chocolate, piloncillo, and hoja santa if using. Simmer gently for 35 to 45 minutes, stirring often, until the sauce is dark, glossy, and thick enough to coat the spoon. Taste for salt. The sweetness should sit behind the chiles, not cover them.
Cut the turkey into serving pieces and lower them into the mole. Simmer 15 minutes more so the meat takes the sauce. If the mole gets too thick, add a little broth. If it tastes flat, it needs salt, not more sugar. Serve from the cazuela with toasted sesame scattered on top, warm corn tortillas, black beans, and small dishes of olives and capers at the table.
1 serving (about 500g)
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