Mīto Sōsu Supageti (ミートソーススパゲッティ, meat-sauce spaghetti)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Wide heavy pot or enameled casserole
• •Large pasta pot
• •Wooden spoon
• •Fine grater for cheese, if using

Instructions

1. 1

   Chop the vegetables

   Chop the onion, carrot, and celery finely and evenly. They are not garnish; they are the sweetness under the sauce. Small pieces soften into the tomato instead of sitting there like little announcements.

2. 2

   Brown the meat

   Warm the oil in a wide heavy pot over medium-high heat. Add the ground meat, spread it out, and let it sit until the underside browns before breaking it up. That first browning gives the sauce depth; stir too soon and the meat steams in its own moisture instead of taking on color.

   If liquid collects in the pot, keep cooking until it evaporates and the meat begins to sizzle again. The sizzle tells you browning has returned.
3. 3

   Soften the base

   Add the butter, onion, carrot, celery, garlic, salt, and a little black pepper. Cook over medium heat for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring now and then, until the onion turns translucent and sweet-smelling. This slow softening removes the raw edge, which matters because the sauce itself is meant to be gentle.

4. 4

   Cook the tomato paste

   Stir in the tomato paste and cook for 2 minutes, scraping the bottom of the pot. It should darken slightly and smell less sharp. Tomato paste tastes flat if it only dissolves into liquid; a little cooking wakes it up and gives the finished sauce a warmer color.

5. 5

   Simmer the sauce

   Add the crushed tomatoes, dashi or water, ketchup, Worcestershire sauce, and soy sauce. Stir well, bring to a gentle bubble, then lower the heat and simmer uncovered for 30 to 40 minutes. Stir occasionally, especially near the end. The sauce is ready when it thickens, turns glossy, and the oil begins to show at the edges.

   Dashi is a quiet addition here, not the main voice. It gives roundness without making the sauce taste like soup. Water is acceptable, but dashi makes the Japanese table clearer.
6. 6

   Adjust the balance

   Taste the sauce. If the tomatoes are still sharp, add the sugar. If it tastes dull, add a few drops more soy sauce, not a handful of salt. The finished sauce should be mildly sweet, beefy, and tomato-rich, with no harsh edge left.

7. 7

   Boil the spaghetti

   Boil the spaghetti in well-salted water until just tender. Japanese mīto sōsu is often served with a softer noodle than modern Italian pasta, but don't cook it until it collapses. It needs enough firmness to carry the sauce without disappearing under it.

8. 8

   Dress and serve

   Drain the spaghetti and toss it with a small knob of butter if you like the kissaten finish. Set the noodles on warm plates with a little height, spoon the sauce over the center, and leave part of the plate bare. Finish with Parmesan and parsley if using. Serve with a fork and spoon, and let the dish be what it is: friendly, soft, and entirely Japanese.

Chef Tips

• •Use beef with enough fat to brown well, around 80 to 85 percent lean. Very lean meat makes a dry, grainy sauce, and then people start adding more ketchup to rescue it. Better to begin with the right meat.
• •Ketchup belongs here, but it should not take over. Cook it into the sauce so its sweetness rounds the tomato rather than sitting on top like candy.
• •For the proper yōshoku feeling, use thicker spaghetti and a wide plate. A thin noodle makes the sauce feel heavy; a thicker one keeps the balance steady.
• •This is a good place for a small amount of dashi if you already have it. Don't make a ceremonial stock just to bury it under tomato, but don't be shy about using a clean one either.

Advance Preparation

• •The sauce can be made up to 3 days ahead and kept refrigerated. It tastes rounder the next day because the tomato and meat have had time to settle together.
• •Freeze the sauce for up to 1 month in flat portions. Thaw gently and loosen with a spoonful of water or dashi as it reheats.
• •Boil the spaghetti just before serving. The sauce waits well; the noodles do not.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 425g)