
Chef Lupita
Atole de Almendra de las Madres Clarisas
Puebla's convent almond atole, ground from blanched almendras, milk, canela, and a pinch of arroz, belongs to the quiet winter kitchens of the Clarisas.
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Puebla de los Angeles' convent cordial, built with aguardiente de caña, clear syrup, and Ceylon canela, rests for two weeks until the spice perfumes the bottle.
Puebla de los Angeles, in the central highlands on the old road between Veracruz and Mexico City, is where this cinnamon mistela belongs. I tie this version to the Clarisa kitchens of the Convento de Santa Clara, the poblano house that sold sweets and cordials to keep the convent running. That is not romance. That is accounting, prayer, and pantry work.
The ingredients tell you the map. Aguardiente de caña comes from cane country, sugar from the poblano mills around Izucar and Atlixco, and canela de Ceilan entered the city through the trade roads that fed its convent cupboards. Puebla's nuns knew how to make a few costly sticks perfume a whole bottle. Ask the spice vendors at Mercado 5 de Mayo: true canela is thin, layered, and sweet. Cassia is hard bark with an attitude.
This drink has no chile, no lime, no bar trick. The flavor is cinnamon, clean syrup, and cane spirit softened by time. You make the syrup, cool it completely, pour in the aguardiente, and wait. No me vengas con atajos. Hot syrup and alcohol make a rough bottle. Patience makes a cordial.
Serve it in small hand-blown glasses or Talavera poblana cups after a holiday meal, not in a giant cocktail glass full of ice. The women who perfected these convent liqueurs understood restraint. Two ounces is enough. Saber cocinar es saber vivir.
Sweet mistelas appear in 18th and 19th century Novohispanic recetarios as aguardiente cordials, served after meals and also kept in convent infirmaries as stomach warmers. Puebla de los Angeles was one of New Spain's great convent cities; the Convento de Santa Clara, founded in 1607 by the Order of Poor Clares, became known for selling sweets, preserves, and liqueurs to support its enclosed community. Cinnamon mistela joined cane distillate and sugar from central Mexican cane zones with canela de Ceilan, an imported spice costly enough that convent cooks stretched its perfume through maceration instead of using it carelessly.
Quantity
3 cups (750 milliliters)
40 to 45 percent ABV
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
4 large sticks (about 18 grams)
broken into 2-inch pieces
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| aguardiente de caña40 to 45 percent ABV | 3 cups (750 milliliters) |
| water | 1 cup |
| white cane sugar | 1 cup |
| Ceylon canela (true cinnamon)broken into 2-inch pieces | 4 large sticks (about 18 grams) |
Wash a 1.5-liter glass jar and its lid with hot soapy water, rinse well, and let them dry completely. Do the same with the bottle you will use later. Any soap smell or dampness will follow the cordial into the glass. The convent pantry was disciplined because spoiled ingredients cost money.
Combine the water and white cane sugar in a small saucepan. Set over medium heat and stir until the sugar dissolves. Let it simmer gently for 3 minutes, just until clear. Do not caramelize it. This mistela should taste of canela and cane spirit, not burned sugar. Remove from the heat and cool completely to room temperature.
Break the Ceylon canela into large pieces with your hands. It should splinter into thin curls and smell sweet, warm, and woody. If it is thick, hard, and sharp like a stick from a pencil box, that is cassia. Use it only if you accept the compromise. It will make a harsher mistela.
Place the broken canela in the clean jar. Pour in the cooled syrup, then the aguardiente de caña. Stir with a clean spoon, seal the jar, and turn it gently two or three times. It will smell sharp at first. That is correct. The alcohol has not learned its manners yet.
Set the jar in a cool, dark cabinet for 14 days. Turn it gently every other day. The liquid will shift from clear to pale amber, and the raw bite of the aguardiente will soften as the canela takes over. No me vengas con atajos. This is not a drink you shake in a bar and call finished.
Line a fine-mesh strainer with a coffee filter or a clean cotton cloth. Strain the mistela into a clean bowl or pitcher without pressing hard on the canela. Pressing brings fine sediment with it. Transfer to the clean bottle, seal, and let it settle overnight if the calendar allows.
Serve in two-ounce pours, lightly chilled or at room temperature, in small hand-blown glasses, pewter goblets, or Talavera poblana cups. No giant glass of ice. No fruit garnish. This is Puebla's convent table: sugar, canela, aguardiente, and patience. Así se hace y punto.
1 serving (about 63g)
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