
Chef Thomas
Anglesey Eggs
Eggs bedded into leek-flecked mash under a blanket of sharp cheese sauce, baked until golden and bubbling. A Welsh supper dish that proves the simplest things are usually the best.
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Created by Chef Thomas
A thin frying steak, sixty seconds a side in a furious pan, then a quick cream and green peppercorn sauce built from the brown bits left behind. Fifteen minutes, start to plate.
There are evenings, usually Tuesdays, when you walk through the door and the day has been longer than it had any right to be, and what you need is not a salad, not a bowl of something virtuous, but a piece of meat cooked fast in a hot pan with a sauce you can mop up with bread. This is that supper.
Minute steak is an unfashionable cut. Thin, cheap, the sort of thing your mum might have fried with onions on a Wednesday. I think it's one of the most useful things in the butcher's counter. It cooks in the time it takes to set the table. The peppercorn sauce comes together in the same pan, built on the sticky, caramelised residue the steak leaves behind, loosened with brandy and enriched with cream. The green peppercorns are the point: softer and more fragrant than black, with a gentle heat that warms without scorching.
We're only making dinner. But this is the kind of dinner that makes you sit down properly, pour a glass of something, and feel like the evening has been rescued. I wrote it down in the notebook last October: steak, peppercorns, cream, rain on the window. It didn't need more than that.
Quantity
2, roughly 150g each
at room temperature
Quantity
a knob
Quantity
a splash
Quantity
1 tablespoon
drained
Quantity
a generous splash
Quantity
150ml
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to finish
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| minute steaksat room temperature | 2, roughly 150g each |
| unsalted butter | a knob |
| olive oil | a splash |
| green peppercorns in brinedrained | 1 tablespoon |
| brandy or cognac | a generous splash |
| double cream | 150ml |
| Dijon mustard | 1 teaspoon |
| fine sea salt | to taste |
| flaky sea salt | to finish |
Put a heavy frying pan over a high heat and leave it there. You want it properly hot before anything goes near it. Two, three minutes at least. Add a splash of oil and a knob of butter together. The butter will foam and spit. That's fine. When the foam subsides and the butter smells warm and nutty and just begins to darken at the edges, the pan is ready. Not before.
Pat the steaks dry with kitchen paper and season them generously with fine sea salt on both sides. Lay them into the pan, away from you, and don't touch them. Sixty seconds. You'll hear a fierce sizzle that settles into a steady hiss. When the edges have turned from raw pink to grey and are just beginning to curl, flip them. Another sixty seconds. The surface should be browned and caramelised in patches, not uniformly dark. Lift them onto a warm plate and let them rest while you make the sauce. They'll carry on cooking. Trust them.
Turn the heat down to medium. The pan will be full of brown, sticky bits and rendered fat. Good. That's flavour. Add the drained green peppercorns and press them lightly with the back of a spoon so some crack and some stay whole. Let them sizzle for thirty seconds until they smell peppery and sharp. Now the brandy. Pour it in and stand back. It will bubble violently and may catch a flame if you're cooking on gas, which is nothing to worry about. Let the alcohol cook off until the liquid in the pan has reduced to almost nothing, just a sticky glaze.
Pour in the cream and stir it through, scraping up everything stuck to the bottom of the pan. Those brown bits dissolve into the cream and turn it from plain to extraordinary. Add the mustard and stir. Let the sauce simmer gently for two or three minutes until it thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon. Taste it. It should be rich, peppery, slightly sharp from the brandy, with a warmth that builds at the back of your throat. More salt if it needs it. Pour any resting juices from the steak plate into the sauce and stir them through.
Put the steaks back onto warm plates. Spoon the sauce over generously, letting it pool around the meat. Finish with a few flakes of sea salt. Serve immediately with whatever you like alongside. Chips if you've made them. A green salad if you haven't. Bread to mop up the sauce if nothing else. The sauce is the thing. Make sure there's enough of it.
1 serving (about 200g)
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