
Chef Ally
Beurre Blanc
The Loire Valley's gift to home cooks: cold butter whisked into wine and shallots until it transforms into something silky, bright, and impossibly rich. Perfect simplicity.
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A winter dressing that honors the fragrant, floral sweetness of Meyer lemons with nothing more than good olive oil, a whisper of shallot, and the restraint to let the citrus lead.
Meyer lemons appear for a few months each year, and when they do, everything changes. Hold one to your nose and you will understand. The perfume is not sharp like a common lemon but softer, more complex, with notes of mandarin and something almost herbal. This is what happens when a lemon crosses with a mandarin orange, and this is why you make this vinaigrette.
The technique here is almost nothing. You are whisking two things together. The skill is in the sourcing. Find Meyer lemons at the farmers market, still fragrant, with thin skins that yield slightly to pressure. Buy olive oil that tastes alive, peppery at the finish, green and grassy. These two ingredients, when they are right, need very little help.
I keep a jar of this in the refrigerator from December through March. It goes on bitter greens, roasted beets, grilled fish, anything that wants brightness without the assault of regular lemon juice. The floral quality of Meyer lemons makes this dressing feel gentle even when it is waking up a plate.
Quantity
3 tablespoons
freshly squeezed from about 2 lemons
Quantity
1 teaspoon
finely grated
Quantity
1 small (about 2 tablespoons)
minced
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon, plus more to taste
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
to taste
freshly ground
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| fresh Meyer lemon juicefreshly squeezed from about 2 lemons | 3 tablespoons |
| Meyer lemon zestfinely grated | 1 teaspoon |
| shallotminced | 1 small (about 2 tablespoons) |
| fine sea salt | 1/2 teaspoon, plus more to taste |
| extra-virgin olive oil | 1/2 cup |
| black pepperfreshly ground | to taste |
| honey or maple syrup (optional) | 1/2 teaspoon |
Wash the Meyer lemons well, even if they came from a farmer you trust. Zest one lemon before cutting, using a microplane and stopping when you see white pith. The oils in the zest carry much of the fragrance. Roll each lemon firmly under your palm before cutting. This breaks the membranes inside and releases more juice.
Place the minced shallot in a small bowl with the lemon juice, zest, and salt. Let this sit for five to ten minutes. The acid softens the raw bite of the shallot and begins to bloom the zest. This small wait makes a noticeable difference in the finished dressing.
Whisk the olive oil into the lemon mixture in a slow, steady stream. Pour thin at first, whisking constantly, until you see the dressing thicken and turn slightly cloudy. This is the emulsion forming. Once it holds, you can add the remaining oil a bit faster. Taste for salt and add pepper. If the lemons are particularly tart, add the honey.
Dip a leaf of lettuce into the vinaigrette. This is the only honest way to taste a dressing. The balance should lean bright, not oily. The lemon should announce itself first, then the oil should carry it gently across your palate. Adjust the salt if it tastes flat. Add more lemon if the oil dominates.
1 serving (about 30g)
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