Memphis-Style Barbecue Slaw

Good barbecue needs a counterpoint. All that smoke, all that fat, all that rich meat crying out for something bright and sharp to wake up your palate between bites. That's where this slaw comes in. It's not the creamy, mayonnaise-heavy stuff you find at most picnics. This is Memphis style: tangy, vinegar-forward, with just enough sweetness to keep things interesting.

I learned to appreciate this style of slaw years ago at a little joint outside Memphis. They piled it right on top of the pulled pork, and suddenly everything made sense. The acid cuts through the fat. The crunch plays against the tender meat. The cool temperature contrasts with warm barbecue. It's not a side dish. It's an essential component.

At Lagniappe, we serve our own version alongside our smoked meats. I add a touch more heat than you'd find in Tennessee, because that's the Louisiana way. But the bones of this slaw stay true to Memphis: sharp vinegar, yellow mustard for depth, sugar for balance, and cabbage shredded fine enough to soak up that dressing while keeping its crunch. Make this the night before if you can. The flavors marry and the cabbage softens just enough to become something special.