
Chef Klaus
Bayerische Breze
The Bavarian pretzel lives by its lye bath: a pale dough goes in, a dark glossy Breze comes out, with thin arms, a proud belly, and salt that bites clean.
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The Rhineland lantern-procession pretzel: a sweet braided milk dough with egg-wash gloss and coarse sugar, made for November 11, where the feast marks the Brezel and the lye stays out.
Martinsbrezel is November bread, the sweet St. Martin's Day pretzel for 11 November, strongest around the Rhineland, the Lower Rhine, the Ruhr, and Westphalia. Children come back from lantern processions with sugar on their fingers, and the baker has done the sensible thing: milk, butter, egg, yeast, and a shape a child can recognize in the dark.
The regions do not agree, good. In some towns the feast gives you a Martinsbrezel with Hagelzucker, coarse pearl sugar; in others it gives you a Weckmann or Stutenkerl, a little bread man. Farther south the day often points toward Martinsgans, St. Martin's goose, and the pretzel in the bakery case may mean a salty Laugenbrezel. Im Norden anders, im Süden anders. This one is not lye-dipped. The feast, not lye, marks it.
The technique that decides it is resting the dough before you roll and again after you shape. A butter-and-milk dough is tender, but freshly kneaded gluten pulls back like a bad-tempered spring; give it ten minutes and the strands stretch long enough to braid without tearing. Then proof the shaped pretzels until puffy, because the braid needs that second rise to bake open instead of tight.
Brush with egg after the second rise, not before. The wash gives colour and holds the sugar, but a wet brush on dough that still needs to grow only drags the surface. Das braucht seine Zeit, and not much more than that.
Martinstag falls on 11 November, the feast of Martin of Tours, whose burial at Tours was recorded on that date in 397; in German-speaking lands the day also marked the end of the agricultural year, rent payments, winter slaughter, and the last feasting before the older Advent fast. In the Rhineland, Lower Rhine, Ruhr, and Westphalia, lantern processions and Martinssingen, children's St. Martin singing, became tied to sweet baked gifts such as Martinsbrezeln. Other regions mark the same date with Weckmann or Stutenkerl, small bread figures, or with Martinsgans, St. Martin's goose, so the bread changes with the town line.
Quantity
500g
plus a little for dusting
Quantity
7g instant / 21g fresh
Quantity
220ml
lukewarm
Quantity
75g
Quantity
1 packet / 1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
finely grated
Quantity
1
room temperature
Quantity
80g
softened
Quantity
8g
Quantity
1
for the egg wash
Quantity
1 tablespoon
for the egg wash
Quantity
1 pinch
for the egg wash
Quantity
50g
Quantity
30g
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| German Type 550 wheat flour or strong all-purpose flourplus a little for dusting | 500g |
| instant yeast or fresh yeast | 7g instant / 21g fresh |
| whole milklukewarm | 220ml |
| sugar | 75g |
| vanilla sugar or vanilla extract | 1 packet / 1 teaspoon |
| unwaxed lemon zestfinely grated | 1 teaspoon |
| large eggroom temperature | 1 |
| unsalted buttersoftened | 80g |
| fine salt | 8g |
| egg yolkfor the egg wash | 1 |
| milkfor the egg wash | 1 tablespoon |
| saltfor the egg wash | 1 pinch |
| Hagelzucker (coarse pearl sugar) | 50g |
| sliced almonds (optional) | 30g |
Warm the milk to 35 to 38C, warm to the finger but never hot. Stir in the yeast and a spoon of the sugar and leave it for 5 to 10 minutes, until it looks creamy. Too-hot milk kills the yeast, and this dough already has butter and sugar slowing it down. Start kindly and it will rise.
Put the flour, remaining sugar, vanilla sugar, lemon zest, and salt in a bowl, then add the yeast milk and the whole egg. Mix until no dry flour remains, then knead until the dough begins to pull together. Add the softened butter in pieces and knead 8 to 10 minutes more, until the dough is smooth, elastic, and only lightly tacky. Butter goes in after the flour has taken the liquid because fat coats flour; give the gluten a start first and the Brezel holds its shape.
Cover the bowl and let the dough rise in a warm place for 60 to 75 minutes, until doubled and puffy. Das braucht seine Zeit. Enriched Hefeteig, milk yeast dough, rises more slowly than plain bread because sugar and butter make the crumb tender but slow the yeast. If you rush it, the pretzel bakes dense in the belly.
Turn the dough out and divide it into 8 equal pieces. Cover them and rest 10 minutes before rolling, because just-kneaded gluten pulls back and tears if you fight it. For each pretzel, divide one piece into 3 small strands, roll each to about 35cm, braid them loosely, then shape the braid into a wide U. Twist the ends once and bring them down to the lower curve, pressing the tips underneath. Keep the openings generous, because the dough will swell in the oven.
Set the shaped pretzels on parchment-lined baking sheets, cover lightly, and let them proof 25 to 35 minutes, until puffy and a fingertip dent fills back slowly. This second rise is what keeps the crumb open after shaping. Underproofed pretzels split at the twist and bake tight; overproofed ones sag and lose their loops. Watch the dough, not the clock.
Heat the oven to 180C conventional or 160C fan. Beat the egg yolk with the tablespoon of milk and a pinch of salt, then brush the pretzels lightly after the second rise. Egg wash gives colour and gives the Hagelzucker something to grip; brush too early and you drag the soft surface before it has finished rising. Sprinkle with pearl sugar and sliced almonds if using, then bake 16 to 20 minutes, until deep golden and glossy on the ridges.
Move the pretzels to a rack and let them cool at least 15 minutes before tearing one open. The crumb is still setting when it leaves the oven, and cutting too soon makes it gummy. Serve the same day, after the lantern walk or with afternoon coffee. Schön ist, was schmeckt.
1 serving (about 122g)
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