
Chef Thomas
Anchovy Sauce
A proper white sauce sharpened with pounded anchovy, the old Georgian trick for waking up a piece of poached fish or a slice of roast lamb on a Sunday in spring.
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Created by Chef Thomas
The pale pink sauce of prawn cocktails and Sunday teas, made in the time it takes to put the kettle on, and quietly better than anything that comes in a jar.
There's a particular kind of evening this sauce belongs to. Late spring, maybe early summer, when the days have stretched out and you've got people coming round and you can't quite face cooking anything that needs your attention. Cold prawns. A wedge of lemon. A bowl of this on the table. Bread and butter. Done.
Marie Rose has been laughed at for years now, dismissed as a relic from the prawn cocktail era, all hostess trolleys and avocados in glass coupes. I've never quite understood the sneering. It's a good sauce. It takes thirty seconds. It makes prawns taste more like prawns and turns a tired iceberg lettuce into something worth eating. We're only making dinner.
The trick, if there is one, is balance. Too much ketchup and it slides into something cloying and childish. Too little and you've just got pink mayonnaise. A drop of Worcestershire pulls it savoury. A pinch of cayenne keeps it interesting. A splash of brandy if you're feeling generous, which is the version my mother made and the version I still come back to.
I wrote it down in the notebook years ago, on a page also containing a shopping list and a phone number I no longer recognise. "Mayo, ketchup, Worcs, brandy, lemon, cayenne. Don't muck about with it." That's still the recipe.
Quantity
150g
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
squeeze
Quantity
pinch
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| good mayonnaise | 150g |
| tomato ketchup | 3 tablespoons |
| Worcestershire sauce | 1 teaspoon |
| brandy or whisky (optional) | 1 teaspoon |
| lemon juice | squeeze |
| cayenne pepper | pinch |
| fine sea salt | to taste |
| white pepper | to taste |
Spoon the mayonnaise into a small bowl. Add the ketchup and stir gently with a spoon. The colour should turn from white to a soft, pale coral. Not lipstick pink. Not orange. Somewhere in between, the colour of the inside of a seashell.
Add the Worcestershire sauce and the brandy if you're using it. Squeeze in a bit of lemon. Just enough to brighten things, not enough to taste of lemon. Add a pinch of cayenne. This is where the sauce stops tasting like ketchup mixed with mayo and starts tasting like itself.
Season with salt and white pepper. Taste it. It should be cool, savoury, faintly tangy, with a quiet warmth from the cayenne at the back of the throat. Adjust until it makes you want another spoonful. Cover and put it in the fridge for ten minutes if you've got them. The flavours settle and find each other.
1 serving (about 52g)
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