Manitaropita Grevenon (Μανιταρόπιτα Γρεβενών)

Manitaropita Grevenon is Grevena's mushroom pie, Western Macedonia folded into phyllo: forest manitaria, sweet leeks, parsley, and creamy Anevato cheese under an oily, crisp crust. The region is the dish's surname. Grevena does not treat mushrooms as a garnish; they are the reason for the pie.

The method that decides it is simple and non-negotiable: brown the mushrooms before they meet the phyllo. A mushroom releases more water than it seems to own. If that water goes into the filling, the bottom sheets go limp and the pie tastes flat. Cook the mushrooms wide and hot, in batches, until the pan quiets and the edges take color. Then the phyllo can do its work.

Anevato, the sharp soft cheese of Grevena and Kozani, goes in after the filling has cooled, with just enough egg and trahana to hold it. Use horiatiko phyllo, the thicker country sheets, not sweet-shop phyllo if you can help it. I don't invent it. I find it, I test it, I write it down, so a home cook can put Grevena's mushroom country on the table and have the pie come out right the first time.