
Chef Dean
Almond Butter Cookies
Buttery, sandy-textured cookies crowned with whole blanched almonds, delivering old-fashioned elegance through honest technique and quality butter. The kind of cookie that earns its place on holiday platters.
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The toasty, nostalgic sweetness of old-fashioned malt powder transforms the classic chocolate chip cookie into something that tastes like your fondest memory of an American soda fountain.
Malted milk powder is one of those ingredients that makes people stop mid-bite and ask what you did differently. It's subtle. You can't quite name it. But something in that cookie reminds you of the malt shop your grandmother talked about, of thick milkshakes in sweating glasses, of an America that measured afternoons in nickel sodas and jukebox songs.
The Toll House cookie needs no improvement. Ruth Wakefield's 1938 creation stands as one of the genuine contributions American home baking has made to the world's cookie repertoire. But this variation doesn't improve on perfection so much as it offers a parallel path. The malted milk powder brings a gentle toastiness, a whisper of caramel, a complexity that chocolate and butter alone can't achieve. It rounds the sweetness and makes the cookie taste somehow more complete.
You'll find malted milk powder in the baking aisle or near the hot cocoa. Carnation is the standard brand. It's the same stuff soda jerks spooned into shakes for decades before the chains took over and forgot what made those drinks special. A few tablespoons in your cookie dough, and suddenly you're baking something with history in it.
These cookies bake up with crisp edges and chewy centers. The malt flavor intensifies as they cool, so give them ten minutes on the rack before you sneak one. They'll still be warm enough to make the chocolate soft. That's the window you want.
Quantity
2 1/4 cups (280g)
Quantity
1/3 cup (40g)
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 cup (2 sticks/225g)
softened
Quantity
3/4 cup (150g)
packed
Quantity
1/2 cup (100g)
Quantity
2
room temperature
Quantity
2 teaspoons
Quantity
2 cups (340g)
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| all-purpose flour | 2 1/4 cups (280g) |
| malted milk powder | 1/3 cup (40g) |
| baking soda | 1 teaspoon |
| fine sea salt | 1 teaspoon |
| unsalted buttersoftened | 1 cup (2 sticks/225g) |
| dark brown sugarpacked | 3/4 cup (150g) |
| granulated sugar | 1/2 cup (100g) |
| large eggsroom temperature | 2 |
| vanilla extract | 2 teaspoons |
| semisweet chocolate chips | 2 cups (340g) |
In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, malted milk powder, baking soda, and salt until thoroughly combined. The malt powder tends to clump, so break up any lumps with your fingers or the back of a spoon. Set aside.
In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or using a hand mixer), beat the softened butter with both sugars on medium speed until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. The mixture should turn pale and increase noticeably in volume. Scrape down the sides of the bowl halfway through. This step matters. Proper creaming creates the air pockets that give your cookies lift and that slightly craggy surface we're after.
Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition until fully incorporated. The mixture may look slightly curdled after the first egg. That's fine. It will come together. Add the vanilla with the second egg. Beat until the mixture is smooth and uniform, about 30 seconds more.
Reduce mixer speed to low. Add the flour mixture in two additions, mixing just until the last streaks of flour disappear. Stop the mixer the moment the dough comes together. Overmixing develops gluten, which makes tough cookies. A few small flour pockets are better than an overworked dough.
Remove the bowl from the mixer. Add the chocolate chips and fold them in by hand using a sturdy spatula or wooden spoon. Work the spatula under the dough and fold it over itself, rotating the bowl as you go. Ten to twelve folds should distribute the chips evenly without further working the dough.
Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes, or up to 72 hours. Cold dough spreads more slowly in the oven, giving you thicker cookies with better texture. If you're in a hurry, 30 minutes will do. If you have patience, overnight produces noticeably deeper flavor as the sugars hydrate and the malt mellows into the dough.
Position racks in the upper and lower thirds of your oven. Heat to 375°F (190°C). Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Let them sit at room temperature while the oven heats. Cold pans extend baking time and can produce uneven bottoms.
Scoop rounded tablespoons of dough (about 1.5 ounces or 40g each) onto the prepared sheets, spacing them 2 inches apart. A cookie scoop makes quick work of this, but two spoons work fine. You should get 12 cookies per standard half-sheet pan. Don't press the dough flat. The mounds will spread and flatten as they bake.
Bake for 10 to 12 minutes, rotating the pans from top to bottom and front to back at the halfway mark. The cookies are done when the edges are golden brown and set, but the centers still look slightly underdone and puffy. They'll firm up as they cool. Pull them a minute early rather than a minute late. An overbaked cookie is just a crunchy regret.
Let cookies cool on the baking sheets for 5 minutes. This rest allows them to firm enough to transfer without breaking. Move them to a wire rack to cool completely, or at least another 5 minutes until the chocolate sets. The malt flavor becomes more pronounced as the cookies cool, revealing itself in that distinctive toasty sweetness that separates these from ordinary chocolate chip cookies.
1 serving (about 45g)
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