
Chef Jeong-sun
Bokbunja-ju (Black Raspberry Wine)
Summer bokbunja steeped with sugar and strong damgeum soju until the berries give up their deep tart color, a make-ahead Korean fruit wine for small cold cups and a slow table.
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Early-summer green plums, sugar, and strong soju left to steep until the liquor turns amber and tart; the fruit comes out by day 100, and patience finishes the bottle.
Maesil comes to market for a short time, late spring into early summer, hard and green, before the real heat settles in. Cook the month you're standing in. If the plums are yellow, soft, or bruised, don't make maesil-ju from them. Make something else and wait for next year.
This liquor asks very little tonight and a great deal later. Wash the fruit, dry it completely, remove every stem, and layer it with sugar and strong soju in a clean jar. The measure matters: 1 kilogram plums, 500 grams sugar, 1.8 liters soju made for steeping. Too much sugar turns it heavy; too little leaves the fruit sharp and thin. Let the maesil still taste like maesil.
My teacher made us mark the jar with the day it was filled and the day the fruit must come out. Not roughly. Day 100. Green plum pits can give bitterness if they sit too long, and this is not a drink improved by forgetfulness. Write it down. Memory is a borrowed bowl. After the fruit is pulled, the liquor rests until it rounds out, the kind you pour in small glasses after a meal, not because it is loud, but because it is clean and steady.
Maesil, the fruit of Prunus mume, has long been used in Korea for cheong (syrup), preserves, and home steeped liquors, especially in the early-summer season when the fruit is harvested green. Modern maesil-ju belongs to Korea's broad tradition of damgeum-ju, fruit or herb liquors steeped at home in neutral spirits, a practice that became easier as bottled soju and higher-proof steeping spirits became widely available. Korean food-safety guidance commonly warns against eating raw green maesil and against leaving the fruit in liquor indefinitely, because the pits contain amygdalin and can turn the drink bitter.
Quantity
1 kg
washed, stemmed, and dried completely
Quantity
500 g
Quantity
1.8 liters, 25 to 35 percent ABV
or neutral vodka 30 to 40 percent ABV
Quantity
2 tablespoons
for rinsing the jar
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| firm green maesil (Korean green plums)washed, stemmed, and dried completely | 1 kg |
| white sugar or light raw sugar | 500 g |
| soju for steepingor neutral vodka 30 to 40 percent ABV | 1.8 liters, 25 to 35 percent ABV |
| vodka or soju (optional)for rinsing the jar | 2 tablespoons |
Use only hard, green maesil with tight skin and no bruises. Soft or yellow fruit gives a muddy flavor and can break down in the jar. If you cannot buy good maesil in season, wait. This drink is mostly fruit and time, so poor fruit has nowhere to hide.
Rinse the maesil in cool water, then spread them on towels until every piece is dry, 2 to 3 hours if needed. Water trapped in the jar dulls the liquor and invites spoilage. Pull out the tiny stems with a skewer or toothpick; those stems carry bitterness.
Wash a 3-liter glass jar and lid with hot soapy water, rinse well, and dry completely. Swirl 2 tablespoons soju or vodka inside the jar and lid, then pour it out. The vessel can be modern glass, not an old onggi crock, but it must be clean and dry.
Put one third of the maesil in the jar, scatter over one third of the sugar, and repeat until both are used, ending with sugar on top. This layering helps the sugar dissolve evenly instead of sinking into one hard block at the bottom.
Pour in the soju until the fruit is fully covered. Use 25 to 35 percent ABV soju made for steeping if you can find it; ordinary low-proof drinking soju is too weak after the fruit and sugar dilute it. Press the fruit down gently with a clean spoon if any pieces float above the liquid.
Seal the jar and set it in a cool, shaded place, away from direct sun. For the first week, turn the jar gently once a day to help the sugar dissolve. After that, leave it alone except to check that the fruit stays submerged. The liquor will move from clear to pale gold, then amber.
On day 100, strain out every plum. Do not leave the fruit in the jar for months because the pits can give bitterness and the flavor gets coarse. Strain the liquor through a fine sieve or clean cloth into clean bottles.
Let the strained maesil-ju rest at least 3 more months before serving, and 6 months is better. Serve it chilled or over one large ice cube in small glasses. It should taste tart, gently sweet, and clean, with the plum still speaking clearly.
1 serving (about 65g)
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