
Chef Dimitra
Aegean Island Kakavia (Κακαβιά)
Aegean kakavia is the fisherman’s soup named for the pot itself: small rockfish, potato, onion, lemon, and enough olive oil to turn a poor catch rich.
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Macedonian youvarlakia avgolemono are little beef and rice meatballs simmered in broth, then bound with egg and lemon until the soup turns pale, silky, and properly comforting.
Macedonian youvarlakia avgolemono are the winter soup of little meatballs, beef and rice simmered together until the rice swells from inside the balls and gives the broth body. The region is the dish's surname here: in the northern home kitchen the broth is pale, lemony, and gentle, with dill enough to smell fresh but not enough to take over.
The whole dish depends on the avgolemono. You pull the pot from the heat and warm the eggs with hot broth a ladle at a time before they return to the soup. Do that, and the broth turns silky. Rush it, and you've made scrambled egg in a very nice soup, which is a small domestic tragedy and completely avoidable.
I like youvarlakia on a weekday because they taste like a grandmother's long morning without needing one. The rice does some of the thickening for you, the meatballs cook in their own broth, and the lemon wakes the whole pot. Good olive oil, and patience. That is enough.
Youvarlakia takes its name from the Turkish word yuvarlak, meaning round, a clue to the Ottoman-era kitchen shared across Constantinople, Macedonia, and the wider Balkans. In Greek households the dish settled into two main forms: a tomato-red version and the avgolemono version, where egg and lemon turn broth into a pale sauce-soup. The northern style often keeps the pot restrained, with rice in the meatballs and herbs like dill or parsley marking the house.
Quantity
500g
preferably 15% fat
Quantity
90g
rinsed and drained
Quantity
1 small, about 120g
finely grated
Quantity
2 tablespoons
finely chopped
Quantity
1 tablespoon
finely chopped, plus extra for serving
Quantity
1
for the meatballs
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
30ml
Quantity
1.5 litres
Quantity
1 small, about 80g
finely diced
Quantity
1
finely diced
Quantity
2
for avgolemono
Quantity
80ml
Quantity
1 tablespoon
optional, for a thicker avgolemono
Quantity
1 tablespoon
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| minced beefpreferably 15% fat | 500g |
| medium-grain ricerinsed and drained | 90g |
| yellow onionfinely grated | 1 small, about 120g |
| flat-leaf parsleyfinely chopped | 2 tablespoons |
| dillfinely chopped, plus extra for serving | 1 tablespoon |
| large eggfor the meatballs | 1 |
| fine sea salt | 1 teaspoon |
| freshly ground black pepper | 1/2 teaspoon |
| extra virgin olive oil | 30ml |
| chicken broth or light beef broth | 1.5 litres |
| carrotfinely diced | 1 small, about 80g |
| celery stalkfinely diced | 1 |
| large eggsfor avgolemono | 2 |
| fresh lemon juice | 80ml |
| cornflour (optional)optional, for a thicker avgolemono | 1 tablespoon |
| extra virgin Koroneiki olive oilfor serving | 1 tablespoon |
Put the beef, rice, grated onion with its juices, parsley, dill, one egg, salt, pepper, and 30ml olive oil in a bowl. Mix with your hands just until the rice and herbs are evenly carried through the meat. Don't knead it into paste. The youvarlakia should hold together but stay tender.
Wet your hands and roll the mixture into small balls, about 30g each, a little smaller than a walnut. You should have about 24. Set them on a plate while the broth comes up to a simmer.
Bring the broth to a gentle boil in a wide pot. Add the carrot and celery, then lower the heat so the surface trembles rather than rolls hard. Slip in the meatballs one by one. They will look crowded at first, then settle as the rice begins to swell.
Cover the pot partly and simmer for 30 to 35 minutes, until the rice inside the meatballs is tender and the broth has taken a little body from the grains. Skim any gray foam from the surface in the first ten minutes. A hard boil breaks the meatballs and clouds the soup in the wrong way.
In a bowl, whisk the two eggs until loose and pale, then whisk in the lemon juice. If you want the thicker northern house style, whisk the cornflour with 2 tablespoons of cool water first, then add it to the eggs and lemon.
Take the pot off the heat. Add hot broth to the egg-lemon mixture one ladle at a time, whisking constantly, until the bowl feels warm and you have added about 500ml broth. Warm the eggs slowly and they thicken the avgolemono like silk instead of scrambling. That's the whole trick.
Pour the warmed avgolemono back into the pot in a thin stream, shaking the pot by its handles or stirring very gently. Return it to the lowest heat for 2 minutes, only until the soup looks glossy and lightly thickened. Do not let it boil after the avgolemono goes in.
Rest the soup for 5 minutes, then ladle three or four youvarlakia into each bowl with plenty of lemony broth. Finish with a little dill, a thread of Koroneiki olive oil, and black pepper. Bread belongs beside it. The bowl will ask for it.
1 serving (about 400g)
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