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Macedonian Hirino me Selino Avgolemono (Χοιρινό με Σέλινο Αυγολέμονο)

Macedonian Hirino me Selino Avgolemono (Χοιρινό με Σέλινο Αυγολέμονο)

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Macedonia's Christmas pork stew, with more celery than seems reasonable and a lemony avgolemono finish that turns the broth pale, thick, and spoon-coating around tender meat.

Soups & Stews
Greek
Christmas
Comfort Food
Make Ahead
30 min
Active Time
1 hr 45 min cook2 hr 15 min total
Yield6 servings

Macedonian hirino me selino avgolemono is winter pork and a great mass of celery, cooked until the meat yields and the greens soften into the broth. It is a Christmas pot in much of the north, pale from egg and lemon, sharp enough to wake the richness of pork. This is not a stew where celery is a polite background. Selino is the second main ingredient.

The whole dish turns on the avgolemono. You pull the pot off the heat, whisk hot broth into the eggs and lemon a ladle at a time, then return it gently so the sauce thickens like silk instead of scrambling. That's the only fussy moment. Do it calmly and the pork, celery, and lemon come together as one sauce.

Use leaf celery if you can find it, leaves and all, because ordinary thick stalk celery is too quiet unless you help it. Your grandmother cooked by eye because she'd made it a thousand times. Here are the numbers until you have, and after that the pot will teach you.

In Macedonia and the wider north, hirino me selino avgolemono belongs to the Christmas season, when household pork from the winter choirosfagia met the celery that could survive cold gardens. Choirosfagia, the pig-slaughtering custom, made fresh pork a feast meat before refrigeration made it ordinary. The avgolemono finish keeps this version white and lemony, separate from the tomato braises found in other regional pork dishes.

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Ingredients

pork shoulder

Quantity

1.2kg

cut into 4cm pieces and patted dry

Greek leaf celery (selino)

Quantity

1.1kg

leaves and tender stems, washed well and cut into 6cm lengths

celeriac (optional)

Quantity

300g

peeled and cut into 2cm wedges, only if using mild celery

yellow onions

Quantity

2 medium, about 300g

finely chopped

extra virgin Greek olive oil

Quantity

90ml

divided

fine sea salt

Quantity

2 tsp

divided, plus more for blanching water

freshly ground black pepper

Quantity

1/2 tsp

hot water

Quantity

700ml

large eggs

Quantity

2

fresh lemon juice

Quantity

90ml

from 2 to 3 lemons

tender celery leaves

Quantity

small handful

reserved from the bunch, for finishing

Equipment Needed

  • wide heavy pot with lid, 28 to 30cm
  • large 5 liter pot for blanching celery
  • ladle and balloon whisk

Instructions

  1. 1

    Blanch the celery

    Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the cut celery and blanch for 5 minutes, or 7 minutes if the stems are thick, until the green deepens and the stems bend without snapping. Drain well. This takes the rough edge off strong selino and lets the final stew taste green, not harsh.

  2. 2

    Brown the pork

    Season the pork with 1 tsp of the salt and the black pepper. Warm 60ml of the olive oil in a wide heavy pot over medium-high heat, then brown the pork in two or three batches, turning until the edges take color. Don't crowd the pot. You want golden edges, not a dark crust, because this is still a white lemon stew. Move the browned pork to a plate.

  3. 3

    Start the braise

    Lower the heat to medium and add the remaining 30ml olive oil if the pot looks dry. Add the onions with a pinch of salt and cook for 6 to 8 minutes, scraping the browned bits from the base, until the onions are soft and sweet. Return the pork and any juices to the pot. Add the hot water, bring to a gentle bubble, cover, and cook for 55 to 65 minutes, until the pork is nearly tender.

  4. 4

    Add the celery

    Nestle the blanched celery into the pot, along with the celeriac if you're using it. Add the remaining salt, cover again, and simmer gently for 25 to 35 minutes, until the pork breaks easily with a fork and the celery is soft but not collapsed into threads. If the pot looks dry, add a little hot water. If the broth is too thin, uncover for the last 10 minutes.

  5. 5

    Temper the avgolemono

    Take the pot off the heat and let it stand for 5 minutes. In a bowl, whisk the eggs until loose and pale, then whisk in the lemon juice. Add two ladles of hot broth to the eggs in a thin stream, whisking the whole time. Hot broth goes into the eggs slowly, then the warmed eggs go back to the pot. That is what makes the avgolemono silky instead of scrambled.

    Once the avgolemono goes in, the stew must not boil. A bare tremble is enough to thicken the sauce.
  6. 6

    Finish and rest

    Pour the tempered avgolemono back into the pot, moving the pot in slow circles so the sauce slips between the pork and celery. Set it over the lowest heat for 1 to 2 minutes only, just until the sauce coats the spoon. Taste for salt and lemon. Rest 10 minutes, scatter over the reserved tender celery leaves, and serve with country bread.

Chef Tips

  • Look for Greek leaf celery, selino, or wild celery with plenty of leaves. If all you have is pale thick stalk celery, use the hearts, add the celeriac, and keep every leaf you can find. Λίγα και καλά: fewer ingredients, but the right ones.
  • Avgolemono dislikes impatience. Reheat leftovers over low heat and stop before the sauce bubbles, or the eggs will tighten and the sauce will lose its silk.
  • This is a Christmas table dish in Macedonia, but it eats well all winter. Put a sharp cabbage salad beside it and enough bread for the lemon sauce. You don't need much else.

Advance Preparation

  • Wash, cut, and blanch the celery up to 24 hours ahead. Chill it covered, then add it to the braise when needed.
  • Braise the pork and celery up to 1 day ahead without the avgolemono. Chill, rewarm gently, then temper and add the eggs and lemon just before serving.
  • After avgolemono is added, leftovers keep 2 days in the refrigerator. Reheat slowly over low heat and do not let the sauce bubble.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 475g)

Calories
680 calories
Total Fat
52 g
Saturated Fat
15 g
Trans Fat
0 g
Unsaturated Fat
37 g
Cholesterol
185 mg
Sodium
1250 mg
Total Carbohydrates
16 g
Dietary Fiber
5 g
Sugars
6 g
Protein
39 g

Note: Chef personas and recipes are created with AI assistance. Cook with care: follow safe food-handling practices, check doneness with a thermometer when needed, and adapt for allergies and your kitchen.

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