Lelê Baiano

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Heavy 3-liter saucepan
• •Fine-mesh sieve
• •Wooden spoon
• •8-inch square dish

Instructions

1. 1

   Soak the corn

   Put the broken white hominy in a bowl, cover with the 4 cups of cool water, and soak for 30 minutes. Drain and rinse. This short soak lets the corn hydrate evenly, so the pieces cook through instead of staying chalky in the middle while the outside turns soft.

   If all you found was whole dried canjica, don't argue with the corn. Soak it overnight, at least 8 hours, and expect a much longer cook or use a pressure cooker before continuing.
2. 2

   Cook until tender

   Move the soaked hominy to a heavy pot with the 3 cups of water, the cinnamon stick, and the cloves if using. Bring to a boil, then lower to a calm simmer, lid slightly open. Stir every 10 minutes and add a splash more water if the bottom starts looking dry. Cook until a grain crushes easily between your fingers and no hard white center remains, about 30 to 40 minutes. Cook it in water first because sugar and coconut milk slow the softening, and coconut milk catches on the bottom if you bully it with high heat.

3. 3

   Add the coconut

   Remove the cinnamon stick and cloves. Stir in the coconut milk, sugar, salt, and grated coconut. Keep the heat low and cook, stirring often and scraping the bottom and corners, until the mixture thickens like a soft porridge and the spoon leaves a trail for one second before it closes, about 15 to 20 minutes. The salt wakes up the coconut, the sugar sweetens after the corn is tender, and the slow stirring keeps the pudding creamy instead of scorched.

   No powdered coconut pudding mix. That isn't a shortcut, it's someone selling you the powdered version of dinner's cousin. Corn, coconut milk, and a spoon already know how to do this.
4. 4

   Set the lelê

   Rinse an 8-inch square dish with cold water and leave it just damp. Pour in the hot pudding and smooth the top with the back of a spoon. The damp dish helps the lelê release later, and smoothing the top helps it set evenly. Let it cool for 30 minutes, then cover and chill for at least 2 hours, until firm enough to cut into soft squares.

5. 5

   Finish with cinnamon

   Dust the top with ground cinnamon, then cut into squares with a wet knife. Serve cold or at cool room temperature. The cinnamon goes on at the end because its smell stays clear and warm there; cook it too long and it disappears into the pot like it got shy.

Chef Tips

• •Buy broken white hominy, canjica quebrada, if you can. Whole canjica works, but it asks for an overnight soak and more patience. Instant dessert powder is not the same conversation.
• •Use full-fat unsweetened coconut milk. Shake the can well before opening. If it has separated, whisk it smooth first so the pudding doesn't cook in greasy little islands.
• •Tuesday shortcut: use 3 cups drained and well-rinsed canned white hominy, skip the soak, and simmer it 10 minutes with the water, cinnamon, and cloves before adding coconut milk. It will be softer and less corny than dried, but it's still food, not powder.
• •The lelê firms as it cools. Stop cooking when the spoon leaves a trail for a second. If it seems loose, cook 5 minutes more. If it gets too stiff in the pot, loosen it with a splash of water or coconut milk.

Advance Preparation

• •Broken white hominy can soak for 30 minutes or up to overnight in the fridge. Longer soaking shortens the simmer a little.
• •Finished lelê keeps covered in the fridge for up to 4 days. Dust with cinnamon right before serving so the top stays clean and fragrant.
• •Do not freeze it. The coconut milk and corn turn watery after thawing, and then you'll blame yourself. Don't.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 150g)