
Chef Thomas
Anglesey Eggs
Eggs bedded into leek-flecked mash under a blanket of sharp cheese sauce, baked until golden and bubbling. A Welsh supper dish that proves the simplest things are usually the best.
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Created by Chef Thomas
Lamb loin chops, seared fast in a smoking pan until charred outside and blushing within, with a sharp mint sauce made properly from the garden and buttered new potatoes that need nothing else.
The first proper spring lamb arrives at the market sometime in April, and you know it when you see it. The chops are smaller than you expect, pale pink, with a clean white fat that hasn't had time to yellow. That's the one you want. The butcher will tell you the same thing if you ask, which you should.
Mint sauce is not a condiment. It's a counterpoint. The lamb is rich and sweet and wants something sharp alongside it, something that cuts through and wakes you up between bites. A handful of mint from the garden, chopped until the board turns green, a splash of vinegar, a pinch of sugar. It should sting slightly. If it's polite, you haven't made it right.
The new potatoes go on first. Small ones, the kind that don't need peeling, just a scrub and twenty minutes in salted water until a knife slides through without resistance. Drain them, toss them in butter while they're still hot, and leave them in the warm pot with the lid on. They'll look after themselves.
I cook this at least twice in spring, once when the mint is just coming up and once more when I've bought too many chops at the market because the lamb looked good and I couldn't help myself. I wrote it down in the notebook: lamb, mint, new potatoes, Tuesday. Some meals don't need more description than that.
Quantity
4-6, depending on size and appetite
Quantity
a good glug
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
1 sprig
Quantity
1 clove
halved
Quantity
a knob
for finishing the chops
Quantity
large handful, about 20g
finely chopped
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
2-3 tablespoons
Quantity
400g
Quantity
30g
for the potatoes
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| lamb loin chops | 4-6, depending on size and appetite |
| olive oil | a good glug |
| fine sea salt | to taste |
| black pepper | to taste |
| rosemary | 1 sprig |
| garlichalved | 1 clove |
| unsalted butterfor finishing the chops | a knob |
| fresh mint leavesfinely chopped | large handful, about 20g |
| caster sugar | 1 tablespoon |
| boiling water | 2 tablespoons |
| white wine vinegar | 2-3 tablespoons |
| small new potatoes | 400g |
| unsalted butterfor the potatoes | 30g |
Strip the mint leaves from their stalks and pile them on a board with a pinch of salt and the sugar. Chop finely, then keep chopping until the leaves break down and the board is stained green and wet. Scrape it all into a small bowl or jug. Pour over the boiling water and stir to dissolve the sugar. Add the vinegar, starting with two tablespoons and tasting before you add the third. It should be sharp and bright, not sweet. The mint will soften as it sits. Make this first and leave it alone.
Scrub the new potatoes but don't peel them. The skin is half the point. Put them in a pan of well-salted cold water, bring to a boil, then simmer for fifteen to twenty minutes until a knife slips through the centre without catching. Drain well, return to the warm pan, add the butter and a pinch of salt, and put the lid on. Give them a gentle shake so the butter coats everything. They'll sit happily while you deal with the lamb.
Take the chops out of the fridge twenty minutes before you cook them. Cold meat in a hot pan doesn't sear, it steams. Rub them with a little olive oil and season generously with salt and pepper on both sides. Press the seasoning in with your fingers. You want to feel the salt under your thumb.
Get a heavy pan properly hot over a high heat. Not warm. Hot. When you hold your hand above the pan and pull it away quickly, that's right. Lay the chops in, pressing them flat against the metal, and leave them alone. Two to three minutes on the first side. You'll hear a hard, confident sizzle that doesn't fade. When the edges have gone brown and the fat has started to render and crisp, turn them. Another two minutes for pink. Three if you want them more cooked through, but I'd ask you not to.
In the last minute, add the knob of butter, the rosemary sprig, and the halved garlic clove to the pan. When the butter foams and starts to smell of herbs, tilt the pan and baste the chops with the hot butter using a spoon. Three or four spoonfuls over each chop. The kitchen will smell like the kind of evening you want to stay in for.
Move the chops to a warm plate and let them rest for five minutes. Not optional. A rested chop is juicy and relaxed. A chop cut straight from the pan bleeds out onto the plate and tightens up. While they rest, spoon the buttered potatoes alongside. Pour any resting juices back over the lamb. Serve the mint sauce in a small jug or bowl at the table. Let people help themselves. There are few better feelings than putting this plate in front of someone on a spring evening.
1 serving (about 400g)
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