
Chef Ally
Cauliflower Soup with Capers and Lemon
A silky, ivory-colored soup that proves cauliflower needs nothing but good stock, a generous pour of olive oil, and the bright punctuation of capers and lemon to become something extraordinary.
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Lamb shoulder braised until it surrenders to the spoon, nestled among creamy white beans and perfumed with cumin, coriander, and the bright, fermented punch of preserved lemon that wakes the whole pot.
Start with the lamb. Find a farmer who raises animals on pasture, who can tell you what the sheep ate and how they lived. Lamb shoulder or neck, bone-in, is what you want here. The bones and connective tissue will dissolve over hours of gentle braising, giving the broth a richness no boneless cut can match.
The beans matter just as much. Dried beans from this year's harvest cook evenly and taste of something. Old beans from the back of a grocery shelf will never soften properly, no matter how long you simmer. Seek out a source. Rancho Gordo, a local farm, your farmers market. The difference is not subtle.
This is a dish that asks for time but very little of you. Brown the lamb, build a fragrant base of onions and spices, add the beans and stock, then let the oven do the work. The preserved lemon goes in near the end, its bright acidity cutting through the richness and lifting every spoonful. This is the kind of cooking that fills a house with warmth on a cold evening, the kind of meal that brings people to the kitchen before you call them.
Quantity
2 1/2 pounds
cut into 2-inch pieces
Quantity
1 1/2 cups
soaked overnight
Quantity
3 tablespoons, plus more for finishing
Quantity
1 large
diced
Quantity
4
minced
Quantity
2 medium
peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
Quantity
2
cut into 1-inch pieces
Quantity
2 teaspoons
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
1 can (14.5 ounces)
crushed by hand
Quantity
6 cups
preferably homemade
Quantity
2
Quantity
1
pulp discarded, rind rinsed and finely chopped
Quantity
1/2 cup
roughly chopped
Quantity
1/4 cup
roughly chopped
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
freshly ground
Quantity
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| bone-in lamb shoulder or neckcut into 2-inch pieces | 2 1/2 pounds |
| dried cannellini or Great Northern beanssoaked overnight | 1 1/2 cups |
| extra-virgin olive oil | 3 tablespoons, plus more for finishing |
| yellow oniondiced | 1 large |
| garlic clovesminced | 4 |
| carrotspeeled and cut into 1-inch pieces | 2 medium |
| celery stalkscut into 1-inch pieces | 2 |
| ground cumin | 2 teaspoons |
| ground coriander | 1 teaspoon |
| ground turmeric | 1/2 teaspoon |
| ground cinnamon | 1/4 teaspoon |
| whole peeled tomatoescrushed by hand | 1 can (14.5 ounces) |
| lamb or chicken stockpreferably homemade | 6 cups |
| bay leaves | 2 |
| preserved lemonpulp discarded, rind rinsed and finely chopped | 1 |
| fresh cilantro leavesroughly chopped | 1/2 cup |
| fresh flat-leaf parsleyroughly chopped | 1/4 cup |
| kosher salt | to taste |
| black pepperfreshly ground | to taste |
| crusty bread | for serving |
Drain the soaked beans and rinse them well. If you forgot to soak them overnight, cover them with cold water in a pot, bring to a boil, turn off the heat, and let them sit covered for one hour. This quick soak is not ideal but will work. Beans that have soaked overnight cook more evenly and hold their shape better.
Preheat your oven to 325 degrees. Pat the lamb pieces completely dry with paper towels. Wet meat steams instead of browning. Season generously with salt and pepper on all sides. Heat the olive oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Working in batches to avoid crowding, brown the lamb on all sides, about three to four minutes per side. The meat should release easily when it has developed a proper crust. Transfer browned pieces to a plate.
Reduce heat to medium. Add the onion to the pot and cook, stirring occasionally and scraping up the fond, until softened and golden at the edges, about eight minutes. Add the garlic, carrots, and celery. Cook until fragrant and the vegetables begin to soften, another five minutes. The kitchen should smell alive.
Add the cumin, coriander, turmeric, and cinnamon to the vegetables. Stir constantly for about one minute until the spices are fragrant and have coated everything. Toasting spices in fat blooms their essential oils and deepens their flavor. You will smell the difference.
Return the lamb and any accumulated juices to the pot. Add the hand-crushed tomatoes, drained beans, stock, and bay leaves. The liquid should nearly cover everything. Bring to a simmer, then cover the pot with a tight-fitting lid. Transfer to the oven and braise for two and a half to three hours. The stew is ready when the lamb falls apart at the touch of a fork and the beans are creamy throughout.
Remove the pot from the oven. Discard the bay leaves. Stir in the chopped preserved lemon rind and let it meld with the stew for five minutes. The lemon should brighten everything without overwhelming the lamb. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper. The stew will likely need more salt than you expect.
Ladle the stew into warm bowls. Scatter generously with cilantro and parsley. Finish each bowl with a good drizzle of your best olive oil. Serve immediately with crusty bread for soaking up every drop of the broth. This is a dish meant to be passed around a table, spooned over itself, returned to for seconds.
1 serving (about 480g)
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