
Chef Takumi
Bancha (番茶)
Bancha is the honest daily cup: late-season leaves, hot water, a short steep, and a clean amber-green liquor that asks for no ceremony to be good.
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Kukicha is the cup made from what sencha leaves behind: pale stems and tender stalks, brewed cooler than black tea, clean and lightly sweet without asking much of the cook.
Kukicha looks like sweepings only if no one has taught you to see it. The pale stems and fine twigs come from tea processing, separated from sencha or gyokuro leaves, and they make a cup that is lighter, cleaner, and often kinder to the purse. Good kitchens have always known what to do with useful things others overlook.
The first secret is water temperature. Pour boiling water over kukicha and the cup turns sharp before it has a chance to show its sweetness. Let the water cool to about 80 C, then steep the stems briefly. Stems give up flavor a little differently from leaves: less bite, more gentle green fragrance, a faint chestnut sweetness if the tea is good.
Dose and time are the second secret. Use enough tea, then don't punish it with a long steep. Two teaspoons for two small cups, one minute, and taste. We are coaxing, not extracting a confession. Kukicha belongs to the everyday Japanese table, after supper or in the quiet hour when sencha feels too brisk. It is honmono precisely because nothing is dressed up: stems, hot water, attention, and a cup left only half full so the fragrance has room.
Kukicha is made from the stems, stalks, and leaf ribs sorted out during the processing of sencha, bancha, and sometimes gyokuro. In Kyoto, a high-grade stem tea from gyokuro or tencha is often called karigane, a name associated with the goose-shaped pieces that resemble floating birds. The tea became valued not as a lesser scrap but as a practical cup with lower caffeine and a distinct sweetness from the stem material.
Quantity
4g (about 2 teaspoons)
Quantity
240ml
freshly heated and cooled to 80 C
Quantity
1 small piece
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| kukicha (Japanese stem tea) | 4g (about 2 teaspoons) |
| soft waterfreshly heated and cooled to 80 C | 240ml |
| higashi or another small dry sweet (optional) | 1 small piece |
Pour a little hot water into a kyusu, the Japanese side-handled teapot, and into the cups. Swirl, then discard the water. Warming the vessels keeps the brew steady, so the short steep doesn't lose heat before the stems have opened.
Heat the water, then let it cool to about 80 C. If you have no thermometer, pour boiling water into an empty cup, wait thirty seconds, then pour it once more into another cup before brewing. Each transfer drops the heat a little, which protects the tea from bitterness.
Put the kukicha into the warmed kyusu and pour in the cooled water. Steep for one minute. The liquor should turn pale yellow-green and smell grassy, clean, and faintly sweet. A long steep pulls out harshness, and there is no glory in bullying a stem.
Pour a little into each cup, then go back and forth until the kyusu is empty. This is mawari-sosogi, round-robin pouring, and it keeps both cups equal in strength. Empty the pot completely, because leftover tea keeps steeping and turns the next cup dull.
For a second infusion, use slightly hotter water, about 85 C, and steep for thirty seconds. The stems have already softened, so they give up flavor quickly. The second cup is lighter but still clean if you did not leave the first brew sitting in the pot.
1 serving (about 120g)
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