
Chef Joost
Bietensalade (Dutch Beetroot Salad)
Cold beetroot, tart apple, walnuts, and a crumble of salty cheese: the Dutch buffet dish that proves winter storage food can arrive wearing its brightest coat.
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The name already tells you: koolsla is cabbage salad, plain words for the crisp Dutch bowl that crossed the Atlantic and came back wearing an English spelling.
The first secret of coleslaw is that the word is Dutch before it is English. Koolsla means cabbage salad: kool, cabbage, and sla, salad, a plain little compound with no velvet curtain in front of it. But let me tell you a secret, plain words often carry the longest journeys. This one crossed with Dutch-speaking settlers to New Netherland, settled into American English, and came back to us as coleslaw, as if the cabbage had learned a new accent.
In my grandmother's second notebook, koolsla was not a grand recipe. It was what you made when the white cabbage was good, when the picnic table needed something sharp beside grilled meat, or when a cheap winter vegetable had to stretch cheerfully across six plates. History and cookery, they cannot be separated, but neither requires fuss. Salt the cabbage first and it will soften without going limp; rinse or squeeze too hard and you'll wash away its character. The dressing should cling, not drown.
Hou het altijd simpel, always keep it simple. Shred the cabbage fine, give it salt and time, sharpen the dressing with vinegar and mustard, then fold in carrot for sweetness and colour. A cold rest does the quiet work. The salad becomes crisp, creamy, and bright, exactly the sort of frugal Dutch dish the world underestimates until the bowl is empty.
Koolsla is the Dutch source of the English word coleslaw, recorded in North America through Dutch communities descended from seventeenth-century New Netherland, where cabbage was a reliable crop and storage vegetable. The Dutch word is straightforward, kool meaning cabbage and sla meaning salad, later reshaped in English by spellings such as cold slaw and coleslaw. Its survival on barbecue and picnic tables is less a modern invention than an old northern habit: preserved, cheap, sturdy vegetables made fresh again with acid, salt, and time.
Quantity
700g
finely shredded
Quantity
1 large
coarsely grated
Quantity
1 small
very finely sliced
Quantity
1 1/2 teaspoons
Quantity
120g
Quantity
60g
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
2 tablespoons
chopped
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| white cabbagefinely shredded | 700g |
| carrotcoarsely grated | 1 large |
| yellow onionvery finely sliced | 1 small |
| fine sea salt | 1 1/2 teaspoons |
| mayonnaise | 120g |
| plain yogurt or buttermilk | 60g |
| apple cider vinegar | 2 tablespoons |
| Dutch mustard or Dijon mustard | 1 tablespoon |
| sugar | 1 teaspoon |
| freshly ground black pepper | to taste |
| flat-leaf parsley (optional)chopped | 2 tablespoons |
Put the shredded cabbage in a large bowl and toss it with the salt. Let it stand for 30 minutes. This is not delay for its own sake: the salt draws out enough water to relax the cabbage while leaving its clean crunch intact.
Tip away the liquid in the bowl, then squeeze the cabbage gently by the handful. Don't crush it into submission. You want cabbage that bends, not cabbage that has given up.
In a second bowl, whisk the mayonnaise, yogurt or buttermilk, vinegar, mustard, sugar, and a good grinding of black pepper until smooth. Taste it before it meets the cabbage. It should be tangy first, creamy second, with only enough sweetness to round the vinegar.
Add the carrot and onion to the cabbage, then fold through the dressing until everything is lightly coated. If the salad looks glossy and loose, stop there; if it looks dry, add one more spoon of yogurt or buttermilk. Koolsla should not swim.
Cover and chill for at least 30 minutes, or up to a day. Stir once before serving and add the parsley if you're using it. Serve cold beside grilled sausages, buttered brown bread, or anything coming off a barbecue that needs a sharp Dutch companion.
1 serving (about 160g)
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