
Chef Jeong-sun
Aehobak-guk (애호박국, Korean Zucchini Soup)
A clean summer soup of Korean zucchini and salted shrimp, built on quick anchovy-kelp broth and finished before the half-moons lose their shape on a weeknight table.
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A clean, quick soybean sprout soup built on anchovy-kelp broth and one strict rule: keep the lid on the whole time, or off the whole time, and do not peek.
Kongnamul-guk lives or dies by the lid. Keep it on from the moment the sprouts go in until they are cooked, or keep it off the whole time. Lift it halfway and the sprouts turn sharp and bean-smelling, and then the whole pot tells on you.
This is weeknight soup, morning soup, after-a-long-day soup. My mother made it when rice was already in the cooker and nobody had patience for a stew. Soybean sprouts, a clean anchovy-kelp broth, garlic, soup soy sauce, scallion. That is enough. The broth should stay light, and the sprouts should still snap a little under the teeth. Let it taste like itself.
Notebook 19 says 250 grams of sprouts to 6 cups of broth, with 1 tablespoon guk-ganjang (Korean soup soy sauce) and 3/4 teaspoon fine sea salt. That measure gives you a soup you can eat beside rice without tiring of it. 손맛 is real. I still measure it, so it can be handed on.
Soybean sprouts have been part of Korean cooking for centuries, with kongnamul appearing in Korean records from the Goryeo and Joseon periods as both food and household medicine. The plain soup is an everyday home dish, but its rice-bowl cousin, kongnamul-gukbap, became especially tied to Jeonju market restaurants, where it is still eaten early in the morning and late at night as a quick, restorative meal.
Quantity
250g
rinsed and picked over
Quantity
6 cups
Quantity
10
heads and guts removed
Quantity
1 piece, about 4 inches square
Quantity
2 cloves
minced
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
3/4 teaspoon, plus more if needed
Quantity
1
thinly sliced
Quantity
1
thinly sliced
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| soybean sprouts (kongnamul)rinsed and picked over | 250g |
| water | 6 cups |
| large dried anchovies (myeolchi)heads and guts removed | 10 |
| dried kelp (dasima) | 1 piece, about 4 inches square |
| garlicminced | 2 cloves |
| guk-ganjang (Korean soup soy sauce) | 1 tablespoon |
| fine sea salt | 3/4 teaspoon, plus more if needed |
| scallionthinly sliced | 1 |
| green chili (optional)thinly sliced | 1 |
| gochugaru (Korean chili flakes) (optional) | 1/4 teaspoon |
| toasted sesame seeds (optional) | 1 teaspoon |
Rinse the soybean sprouts in a large bowl of cold water and lift them out by hand, leaving any skins behind. Pinch away blackened roots or tired yellow heads. Do not trim every tail for vanity; the tails are part of the texture, and a weeknight soup should not ask you to pretend otherwise.
Put the water, anchovies, and kelp in a medium pot and bring it to a gentle simmer over medium heat. Pull the kelp out as soon as the water simmers, about 6 to 7 minutes, because kelp left too long turns the broth slick and bitter. Simmer the anchovies 8 minutes more, then remove them. You should have about 5 1/2 cups of clear savory broth.
Add the rinsed soybean sprouts and minced garlic to the broth. Now choose your method: lid on, or lid off. For the cleanest home soup, put the lid on and keep it there for 8 minutes over medium heat. Do not lift it to check. Half-cooked sprouts hit with cold air develop the smell people remember for the wrong reason.
After 8 minutes, remove the lid and season with the guk-ganjang and 3/4 teaspoon salt. Stir once and taste the broth, not just the sprouts. It should be clean and lightly salty, because it will be eaten with rice. Add more salt only 1/8 teaspoon at a time. Too much soy sauce darkens the soup and covers the sprout flavor.
Simmer uncovered for 2 more minutes so the seasoning settles into the broth. Add the sliced scallion and green chili if using, then turn off the heat. The scallion should soften without losing its green color. If you want a sharper hangover-style bowl, add the gochugaru at the table rather than muddying the whole pot.
Ladle the soup into bowls with plenty of sprouts in each serving. Scatter sesame seeds only if you like them; they are not needed for the soup to be correct. Serve with hot rice, kimchi, and one or two small banchan. This is not a soup that waits politely for an hour. Eat it while the sprouts still have life in them.
1 serving (about 390g)
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