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Crisp kohlrabi cut into matchsticks and tossed with tart apple, toasted caraway, and a simple mustard dressing. A German tradition that makes the case for this underappreciated vegetable.
Kohlrabi is one of the most neglected vegetables at the market. People walk past it, unsure what to do with those strange pale green or purple orbs. But peel away the tough skin and you find flesh that is crisp as an apple, mild as a cucumber, with a faint sweetness that needs almost nothing done to it.
In Germany, kohlrabi gets the respect it deserves. Sliced raw into salads, braised with butter, or shredded into slaws like this one. Caraway is its natural partner there, that warm, faintly anise flavor that shows up in rye bread and sauerkraut. Toast the seeds briefly and they lose any harshness, becoming fragrant and almost sweet.
This slaw improves for the first hour as the dressing softens the kohlrabi slightly, but it holds its crunch far longer than cabbage ever could. Make it before your guests arrive and it will wait patiently. That is the nature of kohlrabi: sturdy, uncomplaining, and rewarding to those who pay attention.
Quantity
2 medium (about 1 1/2 pounds total)
Quantity
1 large
such as Granny Smith or Honeycrisp
Quantity
1 1/2 teaspoons
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
3/4 teaspoon, plus more to taste
Quantity
to taste
freshly ground
Quantity
2 tablespoons
roughly chopped
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| kohlrabi bulbs | 2 medium (about 1 1/2 pounds total) |
| tart applesuch as Granny Smith or Honeycrisp | 1 large |
| caraway seeds | 1 1/2 teaspoons |
| good olive oil | 3 tablespoons |
| apple cider vinegar | 2 tablespoons |
| Dijon mustard | 1 teaspoon |
| honey | 1/2 teaspoon |
| fine sea salt | 3/4 teaspoon, plus more to taste |
| black pepperfreshly ground | to taste |
| fresh flat-leaf parsleyroughly chopped | 2 tablespoons |
Warm a small dry skillet over medium heat. Add the caraway seeds and shake the pan gently for one to two minutes until fragrant and slightly darkened. The moment you smell them, they are ready. Transfer immediately to a plate to stop the cooking. Toasting wakes up the oils and transforms caraway from medicinal to warm and almost sweet.
Trim the stems and leaves from the kohlrabi if still attached. Peel away the tough outer skin with a sharp vegetable peeler or paring knife, removing enough to reach the pale, crisp flesh beneath. The skin is fibrous and will not soften. Cut each bulb in half, then into thin matchsticks using a mandoline or sharp knife. You want pieces about the width of a wooden matchstick, thin enough to be tender but substantial enough to hold their crunch.
Core the apple and cut into thin matchsticks to match the kohlrabi. Leave the skin on for color and texture. Work quickly here. The apple does not need a lemon bath if you dress the slaw promptly. The vinegar in the dressing will do that work.
In a small jar or bowl, combine the olive oil, apple cider vinegar, Dijon mustard, honey, and salt. Shake or whisk until the mustard emulsifies everything into a smooth, pale dressing. Taste it. The balance should lean bright and tangy with just enough honey to round the edges. Adjust salt if needed.
Place the kohlrabi and apple in a large bowl. Pour the dressing over and toss thoroughly with your hands or two forks. Add the toasted caraway seeds and most of the parsley, tossing again to distribute. Season with black pepper. Let the slaw rest for ten minutes at room temperature. This brief rest softens the kohlrabi just enough while it absorbs the dressing.
Taste the slaw and adjust seasoning. It often wants more salt than you expect. Transfer to a serving bowl and scatter the remaining parsley over the top. Serve at cool room temperature. This slaw is a good companion to grilled sausages, roast pork, or anything that needs something crisp and bright alongside.
1 serving (about 160g)
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