Kkotge-jjigae (꽃게찌개, Blue Crab Stew)

At the spring market the flower crabs sit belly-up in blue tubs, females heavy with roe, and the fishmonger can tell by weight before he opens a single shell. In autumn I buy the males instead, because the meat is cleaner and fuller then. Cook the month you're standing in. If the crab is poor, don't make kkotge-jjigae tonight; make dongtae-jjigae (pollock stew) and keep your money.

Kkotge-jjigae is a stew that looks rough because the shells are cracked and everyone eats with wet fingers, but the seasoning has to be restrained. The shells give the broth sweetness, radish gives it a clean base, and one measured spoon of doenjang keeps the sea smell in line. Too much gochujang turns the pot muddy and sweet. I leave it out.

Master Seong-nyeo made me clean the crabs over a bowl so not one drop of roe or juice went down the sink. Notebook 41 says two large crabs, four cups finished broth, one tablespoon doenjang, two tablespoons gochugaru. 손맛 (hand-taste) is real. I still measure it, so it can be handed on.