Kippered Salmon

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Charcoal grill with lid or dedicated smoker
• •Instant-read thermometer
• •Wire cooling rack
• •Rimmed baking sheets
• •Fish tweezers for pin bone removal

Instructions

1. 1

   Prepare the cure

   Combine the kosher salt, brown sugar, black pepper, smoked paprika, garlic powder, and cayenne in a bowl. Mix thoroughly with your fingers, breaking up any sugar clumps. The cure should be evenly colored, the paprika staining everything a rusty orange. This mixture does the real work of preservation, drawing moisture from the fish while seasoning it to the bone.

   Kosher salt matters here. Table salt is too fine and will over-cure the fish. Diamond Crystal brand measures differently than Morton's. If using Morton's, reduce salt by one-quarter.
2. 2

   Apply the cure

   Line a rimmed baking sheet with plastic wrap, leaving enough overhang to wrap the fish completely. Spread one-third of the cure mixture on the plastic in a rectangle matching the size of your fillet. Lay the salmon skin-side down on the cure. Pack the remaining cure over the flesh side, pressing it into every crevice. The fish should be completely buried. Wrap tightly with the plastic, then wrap the entire packet in another layer. Place another baking sheet on top and weight it down with canned goods or a cast iron skillet.

   The weight presses cure into the flesh and forces moisture out. Don't skip this step. An even pressure produces an evenly cured result.
3. 3

   Cure the salmon

   Refrigerate the weighted salmon for 12 to 24 hours. Thicker fillets need longer. You're looking for flesh that feels firm throughout when pressed, with no soft spots remaining in the center. The cure will draw out a surprising amount of liquid. This is exactly what you want. That liquid would otherwise steam the fish during smoking rather than allowing proper smoke penetration.

4. 4

   Rinse and dry

   Unwrap the salmon and rinse thoroughly under cold running water. The flesh will look darker and feel significantly firmer than when you started. Pat the fillet completely dry with paper towels. Place it on a wire rack set over a baking sheet, skin-side down. Refrigerate uncovered for 6 to 12 hours, or until the surface develops a tacky, slightly glossy skin called the pellicle.

   The pellicle is essential. This protein layer acts as a glue for smoke particles and prevents the white albumin from leaching out during cooking. Rush this step and you'll have pale, weeping fish.
5. 5

   Prepare your smoker

   Set up your smoker for indirect heat, aiming for a temperature between 200°F and 225°F. If using a kettle grill, bank coals on one side and place a drip pan filled with water on the other. For a dedicated smoker, follow manufacturer instructions for low-and-slow cooking. Drain your soaked alder chips and add them to the coals or smoker box. When thin blue smoke begins to flow, you're ready.

6. 6

   Smoke the salmon

   Place the salmon on the cooler side of the grill, skin-side down, directly on oiled grates or a cedar plank. Close the lid and maintain temperature between 200°F and 225°F. Add more chips every 45 minutes if smoke thins. The fish is done when it reaches an internal temperature of 145°F and the flesh flakes easily but remains moist. This takes 2 to 3 hours depending on thickness. The surface will be a deep amber with darker edges where the smoke concentrated.

   Resist opening the lid constantly. Every peek releases heat and smoke. Check temperature after 90 minutes, then every 30 minutes until done.
7. 7

   Rest and serve

   Transfer the kippered salmon to a clean wire rack and let it cool to room temperature. The texture improves as it rests, the flavors settling and the flesh firming slightly. Serve at room temperature or chilled, broken into large flakes. Accompany with fresh dill, lemon wedges, and good cream cheese or crème fraîche. Rye crackers or pumpernickel make worthy vehicles.

Chef Tips

• •Seek wild salmon during the summer and fall runs. King (Chinook) offers the richest flavor with its high fat content. Sockeye provides a deeper red color and more assertive taste. Coho falls somewhere between. All work beautifully for kippering. Check with your fishmonger about origins and sustainability certifications.
• •Alder is the traditional wood for Pacific Northwest smoking, imparting a mild, slightly sweet character that doesn't overwhelm the fish. Apple and cherry work well too. Avoid mesquite and hickory, which bully the salmon with excessive smoke intensity.
• •Kippered salmon keeps refrigerated for up to 10 days, tightly wrapped. It also freezes beautifully for up to 3 months. Thaw overnight in the refrigerator. The texture remains excellent.
• •Beyond the obvious pairing with bagels and cream cheese, kippered salmon shines in composed salads, scrambled eggs, pasta with cream sauce, or simply eaten in flakes directly from the fridge when nobody is watching.
• •A dry white wine with good acidity cuts through the richness. Pacific Northwest Grüner Veltliner or an unoaked Chardonnay serves well. For something local, seek out a crisp Washington State Riesling.

Advance Preparation

• •Salmon can be cured up to 24 hours ahead and held refrigerated before forming the pellicle.
• •Once the pellicle has formed, you can hold the fish refrigerated for an additional 24 hours before smoking if your schedule demands.
• •Finished kippered salmon improves after an overnight rest in the refrigerator, allowing flavors to meld and the texture to set.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 113g)