Kaiserschmarrn (Emperor's Torn Pancake)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Large heavy skillet, 26-28cm (cast iron is ideal)
• •Electric hand whisk or balloon whisk
• •Two forks for tearing
• •Medium saucepan for the compote

Instructions

1. 1

   Make the Zwetschkenröster

   Put the plums in a saucepan with the sugar, cinnamon stick, cloves, lemon zest, and water. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook for fifteen to twenty minutes, stirring now and then, until the plums have softened and collapsed into a thick, jammy compote. Some pieces will hold their shape. That's what you want. The kitchen will smell of cinnamon and warm fruit, and you'll know it's ready. Fish out the cloves and cinnamon stick. Keep the compote warm on the back of the hob while you make the Schmarrn.

   Zwetschken are the small, dark, oval plums that appear in late summer. Damsons or any firm, tart plum will work. Sweet dessert plums won't give you the sharpness this needs. The compote should have enough bite to cut through the butter and sugar of the pancake.
2. 2

   Soak the raisins

   If you're using raisins, and the Austrians would, put them in a small bowl with the rum and leave them to soak while you make the batter. They'll plump up and turn boozy and sweet. If you're not using raisins, add the rum directly to the batter instead. Either way, the rum belongs in there.

3. 3

   Build the batter

   In a large bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, milk, flour, Vanillezucker, and salt until you have a smooth, thick batter with no lumps. It should be thicker than a crêpe batter but looser than a sponge. Don't overthink it. In a separate clean bowl, whisk the egg whites with the caster sugar until they hold soft, billowy peaks. They should look like a cloud that's just deciding whether to hold its shape. Fold the whites into the batter in two additions, gently, using a spatula in broad sweeping motions. You want to keep as much air in there as possible. A few streaks of white are fine. Better that than a flat, overworked batter.

   Vanillezucker, vanilla sugar, is what Austrian bakers use in their Mehlspeisen. You can find it in most European food shops, or make your own by burying a split vanilla pod in a jar of caster sugar for a week. Vanilla extract will do if that's what you have, but the real thing makes a quiet difference.
4. 4

   Cook the Schmarrn

   Melt half the butter in a large, heavy skillet over a medium heat. When it foams and the foam starts to settle, pour in all the batter and scatter the rum-soaked raisins over the top, pressing them gently into the surface. Turn the heat down a little and let the pancake cook, undisturbed, for three to four minutes. The bottom should be set and golden. You'll know it's ready when the edges begin to look dry and pull away from the pan slightly. Flip it in sections, not in one piece. Use a spatula to turn rough quarters, or two forks if you prefer. Precision is not the point here. Let the other side cook for another two to three minutes until golden.

5. 5

   Tear and caramelise

   This is the heart of it. Using two forks, tear the pancake into rough, irregular pieces, some the size of a thumb, some larger. Don't be tidy. Add the remaining butter to the pan and let it melt and foam around the torn pieces. Sprinkle over a tablespoon or two of caster sugar and toss everything gently so the butter and sugar coat each piece. Keep the heat at medium and let the torn edges catch and caramelise for another minute or two. You want golden, slightly sticky edges with soft, pillowy centres. The smell will tell you when it's done: butter, sugar, something warm and toasted that makes the kitchen feel like the right place to be.

   Don't stint on the butter at this stage. The caramelisation is the whole point. The torn edges need to fry, not steam. If the pan looks dry, add more butter without guilt.
6. 6

   Dust and serve

   Pile the Kaiserschmarrn onto warm plates or bring the skillet straight to the table if you're among friends. Dust generously with icing sugar, the kind of dusting that looks like the first snow of the year. Serve the warm Zwetschkenröster alongside in a small bowl. Spoon the compote over each forkful. The contrast is everything: the sweet, buttery, caramelised pancake against the tart, spiced plum. There are few better feelings than putting this in front of someone on a cold evening and watching them go quiet.

Chef Tips

• •The egg whites are the difference between a Kaiserschmarrn and a torn pancake. Whip them properly, fold them gently, and the finished dish will be light and pillowy inside, crisp and caramelised outside. Rush the folding and you'll lose the air that makes this what it is. The why behind the how: beaten whites create pockets of air in the batter that expand in the hot pan, giving the Schmarrn its characteristic softness.
• •Bring the skillet to the table. In Austria, Kaiserschmarrn arrives in the pan it was cooked in, and there's a good reason for that. It stays warm, the caramelised butter keeps working, and there's something honest about serving food in the thing you made it in. No plating. No fuss. Your kitchen, your rules.
• •The Zwetschkenröster is not optional. I know it looks like a side note, but the compote is what makes this a complete dish rather than a sweet pancake. The tartness of the plums against all that butter and sugar is the balance the whole thing depends on. Make it first, keep it warm, and be generous with it at the table.
• •If you can't find Vanillezucker, tuck a split vanilla pod into a jar of caster sugar now and it'll be ready in a week. Once you have it, you'll use it in everything. Austrian bakers keep a jar going at all times, topping it up as they use it. It's one of those small habits that quietly improves everything it touches.

Advance Preparation

• •The Zwetschkenröster can be made up to four days ahead and refrigerated. It improves with time as the spices deepen. Reheat gently before serving.
• •Raisins can be soaked in rum for several hours or overnight for a more pronounced flavour. Keep them covered at room temperature.
• •The batter cannot be made ahead. The whipped egg whites need to go straight into the pan while they still hold their air. This is ten minutes of work at the stove, not a project.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 320g)