No paste. No chili. No coconut. Just clear pork broth, hand-rolled meatballs, and the quietest expression of Thai cooking's four pillars. This is the soup that proves restraint is a principle too.
Soups & Stews
Thai
Weeknight
Comfort Food
20 min
Active Time
20 min cook•40 min total
Yield4 servings
Not every Thai dish screams at you. Kaeng jued is the quiet one. The soup your mother puts in front of you when you're sick, when you're tired, when you've been eating too much fried food and your body is begging for something gentle. No kreung tam. No chili. No coconut. Just clear broth, clean flavors, and the four pillars stripped down to their most essential form.
Ajarn always said the system is flexible. The four pillars don't mean every dish must be sour, salty, sweet, and spicy all at once. Kaeng jued uses one pillar: fish sauce for salt. That's it. White pepper provides warmth, not heat. A tiny pinch of sugar in the meatballs, so faint you'd never call it sweet. Sour and spicy are absent entirely. And the dish works. Because the principle isn't "use all four." The principle is "understand all four, then use what the dish needs."
The meatballs are the heart of this soup, and they follow a formula every Thai grandmother knows: minced pork, garlic, cilantro root (rak phak chi), white pepper. That trio of garlic, cilantro root, and white pepper is the aromatic base of Central Thai clear soups. It's not a kreung tam, but it functions like one. A quiet foundation. You pound it lightly in the mortar, mix it into the pork, and roll. The meatballs should be small, about the size of a large marble. They cook in minutes.
I teach this dish at Fai Thai workshops as a reset. After we've spent the morning pounding green curry paste until everyone's arms are dead, I bring out the stockpot for kaeng jued. The room goes quiet. People taste the broth and something shifts. They realize Thai food isn't just fire and funk and acid. It's also this: a bowl of clear soup with soft tofu and gourd, seasoned with nothing but fish sauce and white pepper, that somehow makes everything feel okay.
Kaeng jued (แกงจืด, literally "bland soup") is a Central Thai clear soup tradition with strong Chinese-Thai influences, reflecting the culinary exchange between Teochew Chinese immigrants and Thai home cooks over centuries. The word "jued" means mild or plain, a deliberate contrast to the hot and sour tom yam family. Pork meatball versions became a household staple across Bangkok by the mid-20th century, served as part of the daily rice meal (khao rat kaeng) to provide a cooling counterpoint to spicier dishes on the table.
The technique, the tradition, and the story behind every dish.
divided: 2 for meatballs, 2 sliced thin for fried garlic
cilantro roots (rak phak chi)
Quantity
3
scraped clean
white peppercorns (prik thai khao)
Quantity
1 teaspoon
plus more for finishing
fish sauce (nam pla) for meatballs
Quantity
1 tablespoon
sugar for meatballs
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
pork bone stock or clear chicken stock
Quantity
4 cups
water
Quantity
2 cups
soft tofu (tao hu on)
Quantity
150g
cut into 1-inch cubes
luffa gourd (buap) or zucchini
Quantity
1 medium
peeled, sliced into half-moons
glass noodles (wun sen)
Quantity
40g
soaked in water until soft, cut into shorter lengths
fish sauce (nam pla) for broth
Quantity
3 tablespoons, plus more to taste
vegetable oil
Quantity
2 tablespoons
fresh cilantro leaves (phak chi)
Quantity
for finishing
fried garlic (kratiam jiaw)
Quantity
for finishing
steamed jasmine rice
Quantity
for serving
Ingredient
Quantity
minced pork (moo sap)
300g
garlicdivided: 2 for meatballs, 2 sliced thin for fried garlic
4 cloves
cilantro roots (rak phak chi)scraped clean
3
white peppercorns (prik thai khao)plus more for finishing
1 teaspoon
fish sauce (nam pla) for meatballs
1 tablespoon
sugar for meatballs
1/2 teaspoon
pork bone stock or clear chicken stock
4 cups
water
2 cups
soft tofu (tao hu on)cut into 1-inch cubes
150g
luffa gourd (buap) or zucchinipeeled, sliced into half-moons
1 medium
glass noodles (wun sen)soaked in water until soft, cut into shorter lengths
40g
fish sauce (nam pla) for broth
3 tablespoons, plus more to taste
vegetable oil
2 tablespoons
fresh cilantro leaves (phak chi)
for finishing
fried garlic (kratiam jiaw)
for finishing
steamed jasmine rice
for serving
Equipment Needed
•Medium to large stockpot
•Granite mortar and pestle (krok) for pounding the aromatic base
•Small pan for frying garlic
Instructions
1
Pound the aromatic base
In your mortar, pound the garlic (2 cloves), cilantro roots, and white peppercorns to a rough paste. Don't go smooth. You want it broken down, fragrant, with some texture left. The smell should hit you immediately: sharp pepper, earthy cilantro root, raw garlic. This trio is the aromatic foundation of every Central Thai clear soup. It's not a kreung tam, but it works like one. A quiet version of the same principle.
Cilantro root is not cilantro stem. The root is the thick, pale taproot at the base of the bunch. It has an earthy, concentrated flavor that stems can't replicate. If you can't find roots, use the bottom 2 inches of the stems with as much root as possible. But try to find the roots.
2
Mix and roll the meatballs
Combine the minced pork with the pounded paste, 1 tablespoon fish sauce, and half a teaspoon of sugar. Mix with your hands until everything is evenly incorporated. Don't overwork it. You're distributing flavor, not making a sausage. The mixture should be slightly sticky. Wet your hands with water and roll into small balls, about the size of a large marble or a quail egg. You should get 20 to 25 meatballs. Set them on a plate.
The meatballs should be small. This is not an Italian wedding soup. Small meatballs cook faster, absorb more broth flavor per bite, and fit on a spoon alongside a piece of tofu and a strand of glass noodle. That's the design of the dish: everything in one spoonful.
3
Fry the garlic
Slice the remaining 2 cloves of garlic as thin as you can. Heat the vegetable oil in a small pan over medium heat. Add the garlic slices and stir constantly. Watch them. They go from pale to golden to burnt in about thirty seconds. Pull them out the moment they turn light golden. They'll keep darkening on the paper towel. Drain on paper. Reserve the garlic oil. Both the crispy garlic and the oil go into the finished soup.
Kratiam jiaw (fried garlic) is the finishing touch on almost every Thai clear soup and congee. The oil it leaves behind is seasoned gold. A spoonful of that oil on the surface of the broth adds richness without weight. Don't skip this. Don't skip the oil.
4
Build the broth
Bring the pork stock and water to a gentle boil in your stockpot. Season with 3 tablespoons fish sauce. Taste the broth. It should taste clean, savory, and lightly salty. If it tastes flat, add more fish sauce a teaspoon at a time. The broth is the entire dish. If the broth isn't good, nothing saves it. No paste, no chili, no coconut to hide behind. Reduce to a simmer.
Homemade pork bone stock is ideal. Simmer pork neck bones or ribs with a few slices of ginger and a splash of rice wine for 45 minutes, skim, strain. If you're using store-bought, choose a low-sodium version so you control the salt through fish sauce, the way it's supposed to work.
5
Cook the meatballs
Drop the meatballs into the simmering broth one at a time. Don't dump them. Gentle. The broth should stay at a low simmer, not a rolling boil. Boiling makes the meatballs tough and turns the broth cloudy. You want the broth clear. That's the whole identity of this soup. The meatballs will float to the surface when cooked through, about 3 to 4 minutes. Skim any foam that rises.
6
Add tofu and gourd
Once the meatballs float, add the tofu cubes and sliced buap (luffa gourd). Handle the tofu gently. It breaks apart if you stir aggressively. The gourd goes translucent and silky in about 3 minutes. That's when it's done. If you're using zucchini, it takes 2 minutes. Don't overcook the gourd. It should be soft but not falling apart.
7
Add glass noodles and finish
Add the soaked glass noodles to the pot. They only need 1 to 2 minutes. They'll go from opaque to translucent. That's your cue. Taste the broth one more time. Adjust fish sauce if needed. Ladle into bowls. Drizzle a little of the reserved garlic oil on top. Scatter fried garlic chips and fresh cilantro leaves over each bowl. Finish with a crack of white pepper. Serve with steamed jasmine rice and, if you want, a small dish of sliced bird's eye chilies in fish sauce (prik nam pla) on the side for anyone who wants heat. The soup itself stays gentle.
Chef Tips
•The three aromatics in the meatball mixture (garlic, cilantro root, white pepper) are the foundation of all Central Thai clear soups and stir-fries. Learn this trio and you can make any kaeng jued, any wun sen stir-fry, any simple pork dish in the Central Thai home kitchen. It's the quiet cousin of the kreung tam: fewer ingredients, same principle of pounding aromatics to release essential oils before cooking.
•White pepper, not black. This isn't preference. White pepper (prik thai khao) is the pepper of Central Thai cooking. It provides warmth without the sharp bite of black pepper, and it doesn't leave dark specks in your clear broth. The visual clarity of kaeng jued matters. If the broth isn't clear, you haven't made kaeng jued.
•Luffa gourd (buap) is the traditional vegetable in this soup. It has a mild, slightly sweet flavor and turns silky-soft in broth. If you can find it at an Asian grocery, use it. Zucchini works as a substitute but lacks the delicate sweetness. Winter melon (fak khiaw) is another traditional option if buap isn't available.
•This soup is designed to be eaten as part of a multi-dish Thai meal with rice. It's the gentle dish on the table, the one that balances the spicy larb, the salty stir-fry, the sour tom yam. Thai meals are composed like music. Kaeng jued is the quiet passage between the loud ones.
Advance Preparation
•Pork bone stock can be made up to 2 days ahead and refrigerated. Skim the solidified fat from the surface before using.
•Meatballs can be rolled and placed on a parchment-lined tray up to 4 hours ahead. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate.
•Glass noodles can be soaked in water up to 30 minutes ahead. Drain before adding to the pot.
•The finished soup keeps well in the refrigerator for 1 day, but the glass noodles will absorb broth and swell. Add fresh noodles when reheating, or leave them out of stored portions.
Frequently Asked Questions
Nutrition Information
1 serving (about 480g)
Calories
355 calories
Total Fat
25 g
Saturated Fat
7 g
Trans Fat
0 g
Unsaturated Fat
17 g
Cholesterol
55 mg
Sodium
1650 mg
Total Carbohydrates
15 g
Dietary Fiber
1 g
Sugars
2 g
Protein
20 g
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