Jota Triestina

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Heavy 8-quart Dutch oven or soup pot
• •Separate pot for sauerkraut
• •Wooden spoon or potato masher

Instructions

1. 1

   Cook the beans

   Drain the soaked beans and place them in a large heavy pot with the cold water, bay leaves, and the piece of smoked pork. Bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat, then reduce the heat to maintain the laziest bubble. Cook uncovered for 1 hour, skimming any foam that rises. The beans should be tender but not yet falling apart.

   Do not salt the water yet. The smoked pork provides salt as it simmers, and adding more too early toughens the bean skins.
2. 2

   Prepare the sauerkraut

   While the beans cook, rinse the sauerkraut under cold water and squeeze it dry with your hands. This removes excess sharpness. In a separate pot, cover the sauerkraut with fresh water and simmer gently for 30 minutes. Drain and set aside. The sauerkraut should taste mellow, not aggressively sour.

3. 3

   Build the soffritto

   In a small skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-low heat. Add the diced onion and cook slowly, stirring occasionally, until soft and golden, about 15 minutes. Add the minced garlic and the cumin seeds if using. Cook one minute more, just until fragrant. The garlic must not brown. Set aside.

4. 4

   Add potatoes and sauerkraut

   After the beans have cooked for 1 hour, add the potato cubes and the drained sauerkraut to the pot. Stir to combine. Continue simmering gently for another 45 minutes, until the potatoes are completely tender and beginning to break apart at the edges.

5. 5

   Thicken the soup

   Remove the smoked pork and set it aside. Remove and discard the bay leaves. Using a wooden spoon or potato masher, crush about one-third of the beans and potatoes against the side of the pot. This thickens the broth into something more substantial. The soup should be neither thin nor porridge. Stir in the soffritto.

   The proper consistency is a matter of family tradition. Some like jota thicker, almost like a stew. Others prefer more broth. Mash more or less according to your preference.
6. 6

   Finish with the meat

   Cut the smoked pork into bite-sized pieces, discarding any bones. Return the meat to the pot. Taste the soup and season with salt and pepper. Remember the pork has contributed salt throughout cooking, so taste before adding more. Simmer together for 15 minutes more to marry the flavors.

7. 7

   Rest and serve

   Remove the pot from heat and let the jota rest for at least 30 minutes before serving. Like all bean soups, it improves as it sits. Ladle into deep bowls and drizzle each portion with your best olive oil. The soup will thicken further as it cools. Add a splash of water when reheating the next day.

Chef Tips

• •Smoked pork ribs (costine affumicate) are traditional in Trieste. If unavailable, a thick piece of smoked pancetta or even a smoked ham hock will serve. The smoke flavor is essential.
• •The cumin is disputed. Families of Slavic descent tend to include it; those of Italian ancestry often do not. I include it because I like it. You may omit it without apology.
• •Jota improves dramatically overnight. Make it a day ahead if possible. The flavors deepen and the texture settles into something more unified.
• •Some cooks add a splash of white wine vinegar at the end to brighten the sauerkraut flavor. A quarter cup is sufficient. Taste and decide.

Advance Preparation

• •The beans can be soaked up to 24 hours ahead. Drain and refrigerate if not cooking immediately.
• •The completed soup keeps beautifully for 4 days in the refrigerator. It will thicken considerably. Add water when reheating to restore the proper consistency.
• •Jota freezes adequately for 2 months. The texture of the potatoes softens further upon thawing, which some consider an improvement.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 400g)