
Chef Takumi
Akashi-yaki (明石焼き, dashi-dipped octopus dumplings)
Akashi-yaki is not sauced takoyaki. It is egg-rich batter, tender octopus, and clear dashi, cooked pale and soft so each ball can be dipped like a small custard dumpling.
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Ōta yakisoba is not a crowded stir-fry. Thick noodles, dark sauce, cabbage, and a hot griddle do the work, with just enough gloss to make the noodles shine.
The first thing you notice is the color. Joshū Ōta yakisoba is dark, almost lacquered, but it shouldn't taste heavy. The sauce is fruity, salty, and a little sweet, clinging to thick noodles with cabbage doing its quiet work beside them.
This is weeknight food from Gunma, and it asks for restraint. Many cooks try to improve yakisoba by adding everything in the drawer. Here we do the opposite. Use thick steamed chūka-men, cut the cabbage broad enough to stay sweet, and let the sauce reduce against the hot pan until it coats rather than floods. That is the detail that decides it.
A little pork is welcome, but it isn't the center. The noodles are. Loosen them with a spoonful of water before the sauce goes in, because dry noodles tear and wet noodles season evenly. Once the sauce is added, stop fussing. Let the heat darken the edges and pull the sweetness out. Honmono can be very plain, which is often how it tells the truth.
Joshū is the old name for Kōzuke Province, roughly present-day Gunma Prefecture, and Ōta's yakisoba is tied to the city's postwar growth as an industrial town. The style became known for thick noodles and a dark sauce, with each small shop adjusting its own blend rather than following one fixed municipal formula. Ōta is often named with Fujinomiya and Yokote among Japan's three noted regional yakisoba towns.
Quantity
2 portions (about 300g total)
Quantity
150g
cut into broad bite-size pieces
Quantity
80g
cut into 2-inch pieces
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
for finishing
Quantity
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| thick steamed yakisoba noodles | 2 portions (about 300g total) |
| green cabbagecut into broad bite-size pieces | 150g |
| thinly sliced pork belly or pork shouldercut into 2-inch pieces | 80g |
| neutral oil | 1 tablespoon |
| water | 2 tablespoons |
| Japanese chūnō sauce | 3 tablespoons |
| Worcestershire-style sauce | 1 tablespoon |
| oyster sauce | 1 tablespoon |
| soy sauce | 1 teaspoon |
| mirin | 1 teaspoon |
| sugar (optional) | 1/2 teaspoon |
| aonori (green laver) | for finishing |
| beni shōga (red pickled ginger) | for serving |
Stir together the chūnō sauce, Worcestershire-style sauce, oyster sauce, soy sauce, mirin, and sugar if using. Taste it now. It should be darker and sharper than you want the finished noodles, because the cabbage will sweeten it and the pan will round it off.
If the noodles are tightly packed, warm them briefly in their bag or rinse them with hot water and drain well. Thick Ōta-style noodles need loosening before they meet the pan, or you'll break them while trying to separate them. Keep them springy, not waterlogged.
Heat a wide skillet or griddle over medium-high heat and add the oil. Spread in the pork and cook until the fat turns glossy and the edges begin to brown. This gives the cabbage and noodles enough fat to carry the sauce without making the dish greasy.
Add the cabbage and cook for two minutes, tossing only enough to coat it in the pork fat. You want the ribs still a little firm and the leaves just wilted. If the cabbage collapses completely, the dish loses the sweet crunch that keeps the dark sauce from feeling heavy.
Add the noodles with the water and spread them across the pan. Let them sit for a minute before tossing. That pause lets the underside pick up a little color, and the small splash of water softens the strands so the sauce can cling evenly.
Pour the sauce around the noodles, not all in one puddle, and toss until every strand is dark and glossy. Cook another minute so the sauce tightens against the pan and coats the noodles instead of pooling below them. Serve in a low mound, dust with aonori, and set the beni shōga to the side.
1 serving (about 315g)
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