
Chef Joost
Bavarois met Frambozensaus
A French-Bavarian name, a Dutch party mould, and the quiet trick of gelatine: custard cooled just enough, cream folded gently, and a dessert made ahead like a host with sense.
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The name means Jan in the sack, and that is exactly what the pot gives you: a sweet currant dough boiled in cloth, sliced thick, and sent to table with stroop.
In my grandmother's second notebook, the humble dishes have the best names. Jan in de Zak, Jan in the sack, sounds like something invented by children who were left too long near the flour bin. But let me tell you a secret: Dutch thrift food often hides its cleverness under a joke, and this West-Frisian pudding is clever from the first knot of the cloth to the last spoon of stroop.
The name already tells you the whole method. Jan is the dough, the zak is the bag, and the pot does the quiet work. Before ovens were ordinary in every kitchen, a sweet dough could still become a Sunday toetje, dessert, by being tied in a clean cloth and boiled slowly on the stove. Currants made it festive, not fancy. Stroop did the rest.
The only real danger is impatience. Tie the cloth loosely enough for the dough to swell, keep the water at a steady simmer, and let the pudding cook until it feels firm through the linen. Hou het altijd simpel, always keep it simple. Slice it warm, pour over dark syrup loosened with butter, and you have peasant fare with a Sunday collar on.
Jan in de Zak belongs especially to West-Friesland in North Holland, where boiled dough puddings were practical in households that cooked on a stove or hearth long before a private oven was assumed. The dish is part of the wider Dutch family of broeder, zakkoek, and ketelkoek, flour-and-yeast puddings boiled in cloth and enriched when possible with currants or raisins. Its comic name preserves the method more plainly than any recipe title could: the dough is literally cooked as a little Jan in a sack.
Quantity
500g
Quantity
7g
Quantity
300ml
Quantity
1 large
Quantity
40g
melted and cooled
Quantity
40g
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
150g
Quantity
50g
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
as needed
Quantity
150g
Quantity
50g
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| plain flour | 500g |
| instant yeast | 7g |
| lukewarm milk | 300ml |
| egg | 1 large |
| unsalted buttermelted and cooled | 40g |
| light brown sugar | 40g |
| fine salt | 1 teaspoon |
| currants | 150g |
| raisins | 50g |
| ground cinnamon | 1 teaspoon |
| flour for the cloth | as needed |
| dark stroop or keukenstroop | 150g |
| unsalted butter for the syrup | 50g |
Put the currants and raisins in a bowl, cover them with warm water, and leave them for 10 minutes. Drain well and pat dry. This small kindness keeps the fruit from stealing moisture from the dough, which is how a boiled pudding turns from tender to sulky.
Mix the flour, yeast, sugar, salt, and cinnamon in a large bowl. Add the lukewarm milk, egg, and melted butter, then stir to a soft, sticky dough. Knead for 6 to 8 minutes, just until it becomes elastic and pulls in strands from the bowl; this is not bread for slicing thin, it is pudding with backbone.
Fold the drained currants and raisins through the dough until they are evenly scattered. Cover the bowl and let it rise in a warm place for about 1 hour, until puffed and nearly doubled. If your kitchen is cold, give it time rather than heat; yeast likes patience better than bullying.
Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Dip a clean cotton pudding cloth or tea towel into the hot water, wring it out, and dust the centre generously with flour. Scrape the dough into the middle, gather the cloth above it, and tie it with kitchen string, leaving several centimetres of space for swelling.
Lower the tied pudding into the pot, keeping the knot above the water if you can, and reduce to a steady simmer. Cover and cook for 2 hours, topping up with boiling water when needed so the pudding stays mostly submerged. Turn it once halfway through. When done, it will feel firm and springy through the cloth, not loose or sloshing.
Warm the stroop with the 50g butter in a small pan until glossy and pourable. Do not boil it hard; you want a dark, smooth sauce that runs into the slices, not a sugar trap for the teeth.
Lift the pudding from the pot, let it stand for 5 minutes, then untie the cloth carefully. Slice the Jan in thick rounds while warm and spoon the buttery stroop over the top. Serve at once, with extra syrup on the table, because restraint has no historical claim here.
1 serving (about 230g)
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