Ionian Bakaliaros Plaki (Μπακαλιάρος Πλακί)

Ionian bakaliaros plaki is salt cod baked under tomato, garlic, potatoes, and good olive oil until the fish flakes softly and the sauce gathers at the edges of the pan. It belongs to the fasting table, especially when fish is allowed, and it has the thrift of island cooking: one preserved fish, a few pantry things, and a meal that feeds the table properly.

The one method that decides it is not in the oven. It is the soaking. Salt cod needs two days in cold water, with the water changed often, until the harsh salt leaves and the fish tastes seasoned rather than punishing. Rush that and you've baked a beautiful pan that nobody wants to eat. Do it properly and the cod turns tender, the potatoes drink the tomato, and the olive oil makes the whole dish round.

I keep this version plain and Ionian in its sense of the pan: tomato, onion, garlic, parsley, a little wine, and potatoes to carry the sauce. Λίγα και καλά. There is room in some island kitchens for raisins or a warmer hand with spice, but this is the everyday baked version I would put on the record for a home cook first.