
Chef Graziella
Abbacchio a Scottadito
Roman lamb chops grilled over scorching heat, seasoned with nothing but salt, rosemary, and fire. You eat them with your hands, straight from the grill, burning your fingers because you cannot wait.
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Thin-pounded beef wrapped around a filling of breadcrumbs, pine nuts, and currants, threaded on skewers between bay leaves, and charred over open flame. Eight centuries of Sicilian history in every bite.
Sicily is not Italy. It is something older, stranger, and more complex. For two hundred years, the Arabs ruled this island, and they left behind more than architecture. They left an entire vocabulary of flavor: sweet with savory, nuts with dried fruit, spice with meat. These involtini carry that inheritance in every bite.
The filling is deceptively simple: breadcrumbs, cheese, pine nuts, currants. But when you taste them together, wrapped in thin beef and kissed by live fire, you understand why this combination has persisted for eight centuries. The pine nuts give richness, the currants give sweetness, the cheese gives salt and depth. The bay leaves, charred between the rolls, perfume everything with their resinous breath.
This is street food in Palermo, where vendors thread these little rolls onto skewers and cook them over braziers while crowds gather. But it is also home cooking, Sunday cooking, the kind of food that brings families around the table in Sicily's interior. The dish has many names: some call them braciole, some say spiedini, but involtini captures what they are: little bundles, little packages of flavor rolled tight and grilled fast.
The Moors occupied Sicily from 827 to 1091, transforming the island's cuisine with ingredients like pine nuts, dried fruits, and the sweet-savory combinations that define Sicilian cooking to this day. Involtini alla Siciliana descend directly from this influence. The pairing of meat with dried currants and nuts appears nowhere else in Italian regional cooking with such prominence.
Quantity
1 1/2 pounds
sliced 1/4-inch thick (about 18 slices)
Quantity
1 1/2 cups
Quantity
3 ounces
cut into small cubes
Quantity
1/3 cup
Quantity
1/4 cup
Quantity
1/4 cup
freshly grated
Quantity
3 tablespoons
finely minced
Quantity
1 small
grated on large holes of box grater
Quantity
2
minced to a paste
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
freshly ground
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
1/4 cup, plus more for brushing
Quantity
18 to 24
Quantity
1 large
cut into 1-inch squares, layers separated
Quantity
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| beef top roundsliced 1/4-inch thick (about 18 slices) | 1 1/2 pounds |
| fine dry breadcrumbs | 1 1/2 cups |
| caciocavallo cheesecut into small cubes | 3 ounces |
| pine nuts | 1/3 cup |
| dried currants | 1/4 cup |
| Pecorino Romanofreshly grated | 1/4 cup |
| flat-leaf parsleyfinely minced | 3 tablespoons |
| yellow oniongrated on large holes of box grater | 1 small |
| garlic clovesminced to a paste | 2 |
| black pepperfreshly ground | 1/4 teaspoon |
| kosher salt | to taste |
| extra virgin olive oil | 1/4 cup, plus more for brushing |
| fresh bay leaves | 18 to 24 |
| red onioncut into 1-inch squares, layers separated | 1 large |
| lemon wedges | for serving |
Place each beef slice between two sheets of plastic wrap. Pound gently with a meat mallet until uniformly thin, about 1/8 inch thick. The slices should be roughly 4 by 5 inches. If they tear, do not despair. You can overlap pieces. Season both sides lightly with salt.
In a bowl, combine the breadcrumbs, cubed caciocavallo, pine nuts, currants, grated Pecorino, parsley, grated onion, and garlic paste. Add the pepper and a pinch of salt. Pour in the olive oil and mix thoroughly with your hands until the mixture holds together loosely when squeezed. It should be moist but not wet.
Lay a beef slice flat on your work surface, short end toward you. Place about two tablespoons of filling near the bottom edge, leaving a half-inch border on each side. Roll up tightly from bottom to top, tucking in the sides as you go. The roll should be compact, about the size of your thumb. Set aside seam-side down. Repeat with remaining beef and filling.
Thread the rolls onto metal skewers, alternating each roll with a bay leaf and a piece of red onion. Place six rolls per skewer, starting and ending with onion. The bay leaves should lie flat between the rolls. Press the components together firmly so they touch.
Heat a charcoal or gas grill to high heat. If using charcoal, let the coals burn until covered with white ash. Clean the grates well and brush with oil to prevent sticking. You want intense, direct heat.
Brush the assembled skewers lightly with olive oil on all sides. Place on the hot grill. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes per side, rotating to develop char on all surfaces. The total cooking time should be 10 to 12 minutes. The beef should be cooked through but still tender, the onions lightly charred, the bay leaves darkened and fragrant.
Transfer the skewers to a platter and let rest for 2 minutes. The bay leaves are for flavor, not eating. Warn your guests to remove them. Serve with lemon wedges alongside. A squeeze of lemon is traditional and necessary. The acidity cuts through the richness and awakens everything.
1 serving (about 195g)
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