Chef Graziella
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Culinary Explorer
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Insalata Pantesca
Created by
A salad born on a volcanic island suspended between Sicily and Africa, where the capers grow wild among the lava rocks and the sun ripens tomatoes to impossible sweetness. This is what summer tastes like.
Salads
Italian, Sicilian
Potluck
Picnic
Make Ahead
25 min
Active Time
20 min cook•45 min total
Yield6 servings
Pantelleria is a scrap of volcanic rock in the strait between Sicily and Tunisia, closer to Africa than to Italy. It is a place of black lava stone, of dammusi houses with domed roofs, of winds that blow so constantly that the grapevines grow in hollows dug into the earth for protection. On this island, capers grow wild among the rocks, and they are the finest capers in the world.
This salad exists because of those capers. Everything else is there to support them: the starchy potatoes that absorb their brine, the ripe tomatoes that provide sweetness and acid, the onion that adds sharpness, the olives that echo the capers' intensity. The oregano must be fresh. Sicilians would not dream of using dried oregano in a summer salad.
You will see versions with canned tuna. This is acceptable on the island, where tuna has been caught for centuries. But the essential salad needs no protein. What it needs is restraint, good olive oil, and capers that taste like the sea wind.
Pantelleria has traded capers since Phoenician times, and the island's volcanic soil produces specimens of unusual size and flavor. The Pantesca salad emerged as a way for fishing families to combine the island's famous capers with the vegetables that would survive the harsh growing conditions: hearty potatoes, robust tomatoes, onions that could be stored. It remains virtually unchanged today.
The technique, the tradition, and the story behind every dish.
Discover Culinary ExplorerIngredients
waxy potatoes
Quantity
1 1/2 pounds
Yukon Gold or similar
ripe tomatoes
Quantity
1 pound
at room temperature
red onion
Quantity
1 medium
sliced paper-thin
salt-packed capers
Quantity
3 tablespoons
preferably from Pantelleria
black olives
Quantity
1/2 cup
Gaeta or Taggiasca, unpitted
fresh oregano leaves
Quantity
1 tablespoon
extra virgin olive oil
Quantity
1/3 cup
red wine vinegar
Quantity
1 tablespoon
kosher salt
Quantity
to taste
black pepper
Quantity
to taste
freshly ground
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| waxy potatoesYukon Gold or similar | 1 1/2 pounds |
| ripe tomatoesat room temperature | 1 pound |
| red onionsliced paper-thin | 1 medium |
| salt-packed caperspreferably from Pantelleria | 3 tablespoons |
| black olivesGaeta or Taggiasca, unpitted | 1/2 cup |
| fresh oregano leaves | 1 tablespoon |
| extra virgin olive oil | 1/3 cup |
| red wine vinegar | 1 tablespoon |
| kosher salt | to taste |
| black pepperfreshly ground | to taste |
Equipment Needed
- •Large pot for boiling potatoes
- •Wide shallow serving bowl
Instructions
- 1
Soak the onion
Place the thinly sliced red onion in a bowl of cold water and let it soak for at least 20 minutes while you prepare the other ingredients. This removes the harsh bite and leaves only sweetness. Drain thoroughly and pat dry before using.
- 2
Prepare the capers
Rinse the salt-packed capers under cold running water for two minutes, rubbing them gently between your fingers. Taste one. If still too salty, soak them in fresh cold water for 10 minutes and taste again. When they taste of brine and flowers rather than just salt, they are ready.
Salt-packed capers from Pantelleria are smaller and more intensely flavored than those packed in vinegar. If you cannot find them, rinse vinegar-packed capers and proceed, but know that something is lost. - 3
Cook the potatoes
Place the whole, unpeeled potatoes in a pot of cold salted water. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a steady simmer. Cook until a knife slides through the center without resistance, 18 to 25 minutes depending on size. Drain and let cool just until you can handle them. Peel while still warm and cut into rough one-inch chunks.
- 4
Prepare the tomatoes
Core the tomatoes and cut them into wedges or irregular chunks about the same size as the potato pieces. Do not seed them. The juices are part of the dressing.
- 5
Compose the salad
In a wide shallow bowl, combine the warm potatoes, tomatoes, drained onion, capers, and olives. Strip the oregano leaves from their stems and scatter them over. Drizzle with the olive oil and vinegar. Season with salt (sparingly, the capers contribute salt) and pepper. Toss gently with your hands, taking care not to crush the potatoes.
- 6
Let the flavors marry
Let the salad rest at room temperature for at least 15 minutes before serving. This allows the warm potatoes to absorb the dressing and the tomato juices to mingle with the oil. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve at room temperature, never cold.
Refrigerating this salad dulls every flavor. If you must make it ahead, remove it from the refrigerator a full hour before serving to let it return to room temperature.
Chef Tips
- •Seek out capers from Pantelleria, packed in sea salt. They are labeled 'Capperi di Pantelleria IGP.' The difference is not subtle. Capers packed in vinegar have lost their delicacy.
- •The potatoes must be waxy, not starchy. Russets will crumble into the dressing. Yukon Gold, fingerlings, or new potatoes hold their shape and absorb flavor without falling apart.
- •If your tomatoes are not ripe and fragrant, do not make this salad. It cannot carry inferior ingredients. Wait for summer, or make something else entirely.
- •Unpitted olives have better flavor and texture than pitted. Let your guests manage the pits. They are adults.
Advance Preparation
- •The salad can be assembled up to 2 hours ahead and held at room temperature. It will only improve as the flavors marry.
- •If made further ahead and refrigerated, remove at least one hour before serving. Cold potatoes taste of nothing, and cold tomatoes are a crime against nature.
Frequently Asked Questions
Nutrition Information
1 serving (about 240g)
Calories
245 calories
Total Fat
13 g
Saturated Fat
2 g
Trans Fat
0 g
Unsaturated Fat
10 g
Cholesterol
0 mg
Sodium
290 mg
Total Carbohydrates
29 g
Dietary Fiber
4 g
Sugars
3 g
Protein
3 g
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