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Insalata Pantesca

Insalata Pantesca

Created by Chef Graziella

A salad born on a volcanic island suspended between Sicily and Africa, where the capers grow wild among the lava rocks and the sun ripens tomatoes to impossible sweetness. This is what summer tastes like.

Salads
Italian, Sicilian
Potluck
Picnic
Make Ahead
25 min
Active Time
20 min cook45 min total
Yield6 servings

Pantelleria is a scrap of volcanic rock in the strait between Sicily and Tunisia, closer to Africa than to Italy. It is a place of black lava stone, of dammusi houses with domed roofs, of winds that blow so constantly that the grapevines grow in hollows dug into the earth for protection. On this island, capers grow wild among the rocks, and they are the finest capers in the world.

This salad exists because of those capers. Everything else is there to support them: the starchy potatoes that absorb their brine, the ripe tomatoes that provide sweetness and acid, the onion that adds sharpness, the olives that echo the capers' intensity. The oregano must be fresh. Sicilians would not dream of using dried oregano in a summer salad.

You will see versions with canned tuna. This is acceptable on the island, where tuna has been caught for centuries. But the essential salad needs no protein. What it needs is restraint, good olive oil, and capers that taste like the sea wind.

Ingredients

waxy potatoes

Quantity

1 1/2 pounds

Yukon Gold or similar

ripe tomatoes

Quantity

1 pound

at room temperature

red onion

Quantity

1 medium

sliced paper-thin

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