Chef Graziella
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Insalata di Gamberi alla Ligure
Created by
The composed salad of the Italian Riviera, where sweet shrimp meet tender potatoes, crisp green beans, and just enough pesto to remind you that Genoa invented it.
Salads
Italian, Ligurian
Dinner Party
Special Occasion
30 min
Active Time
25 min cook•55 min total
Yield6 servings
Liguria clings to the coast in a narrow crescent, mountains pressing against the sea. There is little land for farming, so Ligurians learned to make the most of what they have: the sea's bounty, terraced gardens of basil and vegetables, and olive trees that somehow grow on nearly vertical slopes. This salad is their summer, arranged on a plate.
The combination may seem unlikely to those who think of pesto only with pasta. But Ligurians have always understood that their basil sauce belongs wherever it can brighten a dish. Here, it serves as a whisper, not a shout. The shrimp remain the center. The potatoes and green beans provide substance. The pesto ties them together with its perfume of basil and pine nuts.
Each component must be cooked separately and with precision. Overcooked shrimp become rubber. Undercooked potatoes refuse to absorb the dressing. Mushy green beans have no purpose. You dress everything while still warm, so the vegetables drink in the olive oil and the flavors marry before the salad cools. This is not difficult, but it requires attention. Simple does not mean careless.
Ligurian cooks have combined seafood with pesto since at least the 19th century, when the fishing villages along the Riviera developed their own variations of Genoa's famous sauce. This salad emerged from the cucina povera tradition of stretching expensive shrimp with humble potatoes and garden vegetables, creating a dish substantial enough for a light supper yet elegant enough for a festa.
The technique, the tradition, and the story behind every dish.
Discover Culinary ExplorerIngredients
large shrimp
Quantity
1 1/2 pounds (about 24)
shell-on
waxy potatoes
Quantity
1 pound
such as Yukon Gold
green beans (fagiolini)
Quantity
12 ounces
trimmed
pesto Genovese
Quantity
1/4 cup
extra virgin olive oil
Quantity
1/3 cup
preferably Ligurian
fresh lemon juice
Quantity
2 tablespoons
shallot
Quantity
1 small
minced fine
kosher salt
Quantity
to taste
black pepper
Quantity
to taste
freshly ground
pine nuts
Quantity
2 tablespoons
lightly toasted
basil leaves
Quantity
small handful
for finishing
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| large shrimpshell-on | 1 1/2 pounds (about 24) |
| waxy potatoessuch as Yukon Gold | 1 pound |
| green beans (fagiolini)trimmed | 12 ounces |
| pesto Genovese | 1/4 cup |
| extra virgin olive oilpreferably Ligurian | 1/3 cup |
| fresh lemon juice | 2 tablespoons |
| shallotminced fine | 1 small |
| kosher salt | to taste |
| black pepperfreshly ground | to taste |
| pine nutslightly toasted | 2 tablespoons |
| basil leavesfor finishing | small handful |
Equipment Needed
- •Large pot for potatoes
- •Large pot for blanching green beans
- •Medium saucepan for poaching shrimp
- •Large serving platter
Instructions
- 1
Cook the potatoes
Place the whole, unpeeled potatoes in a pot and cover with cold water by two inches. Add a generous amount of salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer until a knife slides through the center with no resistance, 20 to 25 minutes depending on size. The potatoes should not be falling apart. Drain and let cool just until you can handle them. Peel while still warm and cut into half-inch dice.
- 2
Blanch the green beans
While the potatoes cook, bring a large pot of generously salted water to a rolling boil. Add the trimmed green beans and cook until tender but still bright green and slightly crisp, 4 to 5 minutes. They should bend without snapping but retain their shape. Drain and spread on a towel to dry. Do not shock in ice water. You want them warm.
Italians do not serve vegetables raw-crisp the way Americans prefer. The beans should be cooked through but not mushy. Test one: it should be tender when you bite it. - 3
Poach the shrimp
Bring a fresh pot of salted water to a gentle simmer. The water should barely bubble, not boil violently. Add the shell-on shrimp and poach until just pink and curled, 2 to 3 minutes. The shells protect the flesh and add flavor. Remove immediately and let cool just enough to handle. Peel and devein, leaving the tails intact if you prefer the presentation.
Overcooked shrimp is the most common failure. Pull them the moment they turn pink. They will continue cooking from residual heat. - 4
Make the dressing
In a small bowl, whisk together the pesto, olive oil, lemon juice, and minced shallot. The dressing should be thin enough to coat but not so thick that it clumps. Season with salt and pepper. Taste it. The lemon should brighten the pesto without dominating.
- 5
Dress the vegetables while warm
Place the warm diced potatoes in a large bowl. Drizzle with half the dressing and toss gently. The warm potatoes will absorb the flavors. Add the green beans and another portion of the dressing. Toss again. Let the vegetables rest for 10 minutes at room temperature to marry the flavors.
Dressing warm vegetables is essential. Cold potatoes resist the oil and remain bland at the center. This is not a step to skip. - 6
Assemble and serve
Arrange the dressed vegetables on a large serving platter. Nestle the shrimp among them, pink against the green and gold. Drizzle the remaining dressing over the shrimp. Scatter the toasted pine nuts across the top and finish with small basil leaves. Serve at room temperature, not cold from the refrigerator. The flavors are best when the chill is off.
Chef Tips
- •If you make your own pesto, use the youngest, smallest basil leaves you can find. Large leaves are bitter. And never use a blender if you can use a mortar; the pesto will be brighter and more fragrant.
- •Ligurian olive oil is light and delicate, not peppery like Tuscan oils. If you cannot find it, choose a mild, fruity oil that will not overpower the basil.
- •This salad is best the day it is made. The potatoes become mealy overnight and the basil darkens. Make it for an occasion when it will be eaten promptly.
Advance Preparation
- •The pesto can be made up to two days ahead if pressed under a layer of olive oil and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before using.
- •You may poach the shrimp, cook the potatoes, and blanch the beans up to four hours ahead. Keep at room temperature. Dress and assemble just before serving.
Frequently Asked Questions
Nutrition Information
1 serving (about 225g)
Calories
330 calories
Total Fat
20 g
Saturated Fat
3 g
Trans Fat
0 g
Unsaturated Fat
16 g
Cholesterol
120 mg
Sodium
400 mg
Total Carbohydrates
22 g
Dietary Fiber
4 g
Sugars
2 g
Protein
19 g
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