Insalata di Gamberi alla Ligure

Liguria clings to the coast in a narrow crescent, mountains pressing against the sea. There is little land for farming, so Ligurians learned to make the most of what they have: the sea's bounty, terraced gardens of basil and vegetables, and olive trees that somehow grow on nearly vertical slopes. This salad is their summer, arranged on a plate.

The combination may seem unlikely to those who think of pesto only with pasta. But Ligurians have always understood that their basil sauce belongs wherever it can brighten a dish. Here, it serves as a whisper, not a shout. The shrimp remain the center. The potatoes and green beans provide substance. The pesto ties them together with its perfume of basil and pine nuts.

Each component must be cooked separately and with precision. Overcooked shrimp become rubber. Undercooked potatoes refuse to absorb the dressing. Mushy green beans have no purpose. You dress everything while still warm, so the vegetables drink in the olive oil and the flavors marry before the salad cools. This is not difficult, but it requires attention. Simple does not mean careless.