
Chef Jeong-sun
Agwi-jjim (Braised Monkfish with Bean Sprouts)
Firm monkfish buried under crisp soybean sprouts, minari, and a red gochugaru sauce thickened at the end; Masan's market dish asks for heat, timing, and a steady hand.
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A weeknight grilled fish with crisp salted skin, moist white flesh, and enough savory oil to season a bowl of rice without needing a heavy sauce.
Imyeonsu-gui lives or dies by the skin. Put the fish down flesh-side first and you spend the rest of dinner apologizing to it. Skin-side first, over steady heat, the fat renders, the surface crisps, and the flesh underneath stays gentle. This is not a dish to bury under sauce. Let it taste like itself.
My teacher, Master Seong-nyeo, used to say the best old fish cooks knew the skin was half the meal. Some people ate that crisp skin with rice before touching the flesh. I wrote that down in Notebook 18, because a thing everyone says in passing is exactly the kind of thing that disappears. Salt the fish, wait long enough for the surface to dry, and cook it with patience. That is the whole instruction, but it has to be obeyed.
Tonight this dish asks for almost nothing grand: good fish, measured salt, a hot grill or pan, and restraint. Serve it with rice, kimchi, and one green namul if you have it. The dipping sauce is sharp and small, not a blanket. 손맛 is real. I still measure it, so it can be handed on.
Imyeonsu, usually identified in English as Atka mackerel or Arabesque greenling depending on market labeling, is a cold-water fish long eaten grilled or pan-fried along Korea's eastern coast and in northern-style home cooking. Its popularity grew through markets and home tables rather than court records, especially because the oily flesh salts well and the skin crisps cleanly over direct heat. In Korea it is commonly sold split, salted, and ready for gui (grilled fish), making it a practical weeknight fish with a loyal following.
Quantity
1 fish, about 450 to 550g
cleaned and patted dry
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
for the grate or pan
Quantity
1 teaspoon
for finishing the fish
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
finely chopped
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
to serve
Quantity
optional
thinly sliced if using
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| whole butterflied imyeonsu (Atka mackerel)cleaned and patted dry | 1 fish, about 450 to 550g |
| coarse sea salt | 1 teaspoon |
| neutral oilfor the grate or pan | 1 teaspoon |
| toasted sesame oil (optional)for finishing the fish | 1 teaspoon |
| soy sauce | 2 tablespoons |
| rice vinegar | 1 tablespoon |
| water | 1 tablespoon |
| scallionfinely chopped | 1 teaspoon |
| toasted sesame seeds | 1/2 teaspoon |
| gochugaru (Korean chili flakes) (optional) | 1/4 teaspoon |
| cooked short-grain rice | to serve |
| lemon wedge or Korean green chili (optional)thinly sliced if using | optional |
Lay the butterflied fish skin-side down on a tray and sprinkle the flesh evenly with 1 teaspoon coarse sea salt. Let it stand 15 minutes. This short salting seasons the flesh and pulls surface moisture out, which is what helps the skin crisp instead of sticking and tearing.
Pat both sides very dry with towels, especially the skin. Do not rush this. Wet skin steams against the pan and stays limp; dry skin meets hot metal and crisps. If you have 10 extra minutes, leave the fish uncovered in the refrigerator after salting and drying.
Stir together the soy sauce, rice vinegar, water, scallion, sesame seeds, and gochugaru if using. Keep it thin and sharp. The fish is oily and already salted, so the sauce should cut through it, not make it heavier.
Heat a grill pan, cast-iron skillet, or broiler-safe grill rack over medium-high heat. Brush with 1 teaspoon neutral oil. The surface should be hot before the fish touches it, but not smoking hard; too much heat burns the skin before the flesh cooks through.
Place the fish skin-side down and press gently with a spatula for the first 20 seconds so the skin makes full contact. Cook 6 to 8 minutes without moving it. You are waiting for the skin to release on its own and turn deep golden in patches. If it sticks, it is telling you it is not ready.
Turn the fish carefully with a wide spatula and cook the flesh side 3 to 4 minutes, just until the thickest part flakes under chopsticks but still looks moist. If using sesame oil, brush on only 1 teaspoon at the end. Sesame oil burns easily, so it belongs at the finish, not at the start.
Move the fish to a platter skin-side up so the crisp side stays proud. Serve with rice and the soy-vinegar dip on the side. Eat the skin while it is still crisp, then the flesh with rice. That order is not ceremony. It is good sense.
1 serving (about 330g)
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