Ika no Tempura (いかの天ぷら)

Squid frightens people because it seems to have two moods: tender or rubber. That fear is useful. It points you straight to the one detail that decides the dish, time in the oil. Ika no tempura is not difficult, only quick.

Choose squid that smells clean and faintly sweet, with flesh that looks glossy rather than tired. If the market has fresh surume-ika in summer or early autumn, when it is often at its 旬 (shun), use it. If not, good frozen squid is a sensible stand-in, because squid freezes well. Nothing hidden here: a poor squid will not be rescued by batter.

The cut matters before the frying begins. Score the inside lightly in a crosshatch, then cut rings or rectangles. Those shallow cuts help the squid relax in the oil and give the batter little edges to cling to. Dry it well, dust it lightly, dip it briefly. The batter should be thin and cold, because tempura is a veil, not a coat.

Serve it the moment it leaves the oil, while the surface is crisp and the flesh is still tender. A squeeze of lemon and a pinch of salt are enough, or offer tentsuyu, the dashi dipping sauce, with grated daikon. This is the method, not the menu: cold batter, hot oil, short cooking. Keep those three in order and the real thing is already within reach.