
Chef Lupita
Alegrías de Amaranto de Tulyehualco
Ciudad de México's Tulyehualco alegría is popped huautli folded into piloncillo honey, pressed with peanuts, pepitas, and raisins, then cut into the rectangular bars that built a pueblo's identity.
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Puebla's baroque convent sweet of beaten egg yolks baked gently in a water bath, cut into diamonds, and soaked with canela sherry syrup until every piece turns rich, perfumed, and ceremonial.
Puebla, the Angelopolis, owns this sweet in the way it owns talavera, convent kitchens, and church walls heavy with gold. Huevos reales live in the old dessert line of Puebla de los Angeles, where egg yolks, sugar, canela, and jerez became ceremony in the hands of convent women and later the home cooks who kept the method alive.
The ingredient that defines it is the yolk. Not milk, not cream, not chile. There are no chiles here because not every Mexican dish needs to prove itself with heat. The work is in the beating and the water bath. If the oven is too hot, the yolks turn rubbery. If you do not beat enough air into them, they sit heavy in the dish.
My mother was from Jalisco, so she did not pretend this was hers. In her notebook, the recipe was labeled: Puebla, Santa Clara, ask again about syrup. That is how regional cooking should be handled. Name where it came from before you cook it. Cada estado, su propia cocina.
I learned this version in Puebla from a senora who sold dulces near Calle de Santa Clara. She kept the syrup loose, the raisins plump, and the pinones visible because a celebration should not look stingy. La cocina no es decoracion, es trabajo.
The dish huevos reales has Iberian ancestry, connected to Spanish and Portuguese yolk sweets that use sugar syrup to preserve and enrich egg-based desserts. A Puebla tradition links its rise in the 17th and 18th centuries to convent kitchens that used egg whites for gilding and other household work, leaving yolks to become sweets like huevos reales, yemas, and other reposteria conventual. Today variants are prepared in Puebla, Oaxaca, Tlaxcala, and Mexico City, but the version with jerez, raisins, pinones, and talavera service speaks most clearly to Puebla's baroque table.
Quantity
12
room temperature
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1/8 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
softened, for greasing the mold
Quantity
1 1/2 cups
Quantity
2 cups
Quantity
1 stick, about 3 inches
Quantity
1 wide strip
white pith removed
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
1/4 cup
preferably oloroso or amontillado
Quantity
1/4 cup
lightly toasted
Quantity
1/4 cup
slivered and lightly toasted
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| large egg yolksroom temperature | 12 |
| warm water | 1 tablespoon |
| fine sea salt | 1/8 teaspoon |
| baking powder | 1/2 teaspoon |
| unsalted buttersoftened, for greasing the mold | 1 tablespoon |
| granulated cane sugar | 1 1/2 cups |
| water | 2 cups |
| Mexican canela stick | 1 stick, about 3 inches |
| orange peelwhite pith removed | 1 wide strip |
| seedless raisins | 1/2 cup |
| sweet sherry (jerez dulce)preferably oloroso or amontillado | 1/4 cup |
| pine nuts (pinones)lightly toasted | 1/4 cup |
| blanched almondsslivered and lightly toasted | 1/4 cup |
Heat the oven to 300F. Butter an 8-inch square mold well, especially the corners. Set the mold inside a roasting pan. Bring a kettle of water just to a simmer for the bano Maria. This dessert is gentle or it is ruined. Direct heat makes the yolks tough.
Dissolve the salt in the tablespoon of warm water. Put the egg yolks in the bowl of a stand mixer, add the salted water, and beat on high speed for 8 to 10 minutes, until the yolks are pale, thick, and fall from the whisk in a slow ribbon. Sift the baking powder over the yolks and fold it in with a spatula. The air you beat into the yolks is the structure of the dish. No me vengas con atajos.
Scrape the beaten yolks into the buttered mold and smooth the top lightly. Cover the mold with buttered parchment, then foil. Set the roasting pan on the oven rack and pour hot water into the pan until it reaches halfway up the sides of the mold. Bake for 40 to 50 minutes, until the center is set and a toothpick comes out clean. The top should be golden, not browned.
While the custard bakes, combine the sugar, water, canela, orange peel, and raisins in a small saucepan. Simmer over medium-low heat for 12 to 15 minutes, until the sugar dissolves completely and the raisins swell. Remove from the heat, wait 5 minutes, then stir in the jerez. Do not boil the sherry. You paid for its aroma, so keep it.
Let the baked yolk custard rest for 10 minutes. Unmold it carefully onto a board and cut it into diamonds or 1 1/2-inch squares. Arrange the pieces in a deep Puebla talavera serving dish. Remove the canela and orange peel from the syrup, keep the raisins, and pour the warm syrup over the pieces. Let them soak for at least 2 hours, spooning syrup over the tops every 30 minutes. The sponge should drink the syrup and stay delicate, not collapse into mush.
Scatter the syrup-plumped raisins, toasted pinones, and toasted almonds over the soaked pieces. Serve cool or at room temperature, with extra syrup spooned from the bottom of the dish. This is not a dessert for a lonely white plate. Put the talavera on the table and let people serve themselves. Asi se hace y punto.
1 serving (about 95g)
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