Huevos Divorciados Bajío

Guanajuato, in the Bajío, knows this plate from fondas, mercado counters, and quick home breakfasts before the day gets serious. Huevos divorciados are not rare food. They are practical food. Two eggs, two salsas, one line of frijoles refritos down the middle so the marriage stays separated.

The red salsa here is guajillo, with a little chile ancho for body. The green salsa is tomatillo with chile serrano and cilantro. That red and green division matters. Do not drown both eggs in the same salsa and call it divorced. No me vengas con atajos.

The beans are the spine of the plate. In Guanajuato and Querétaro, I watched señoras refry flor de mayo or bayo beans in manteca de cerdo until they held their shape on the spoon. La manteca es el sabor. Oil makes beans shiny. Lard makes them taste like breakfast.

Serve it on barro from the region if you have it, Capula or Dolores Hidalgo majolica, with bolillo from the panadería and café de olla in a stoneware mug. This is a 32-state cuisine. Cada estado, su propia cocina.