
Chef Thomas
A Proper Roast Chicken
A whole bird rubbed with butter, stuffed with lemon and thyme, roasted until the skin crackles and the kitchen smells like the kind of evening you want to sit down and stay in.
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Created by Chef Thomas
A Devon pie of potatoes, slow-cooked onions, cream and sharp Cheddar in a short pastry case, the kind of cooking that asks for nothing clever and gives back a whole evening's comfort.
October, and the kitchen window has started to steam up again. I brought potatoes home from the market on Saturday, the small waxy sort that hold their shape when you slice them, along with onions that smelled like they meant it. A homity pie was the only sensible conclusion.
This is a Devon dish, though I suspect nobody in Devon would agree on a single recipe for it. An open-topped pie of sliced potatoes and slow-cooked onions, bound with cream and buried under cheese. It came out of wartime frugality and stayed because it's good. Not good for a vegetable pie, not good considering it's meatless. Just good. The kind of good where someone finishes a slice, pauses, and cuts another without asking.
The onions do most of the work. Twenty minutes over a gentle heat, softening until they're sweet and golden, and they become the backbone of the whole thing. The potatoes give it heft. The cream and cheese make it rich without being heavy. A recipe is a conversation, not a contract, so adjust the quantities to your tin and your appetite. More cheese is seldom wrong.
I wrote it down in the notebook last week: potatoes, onions, cheese, Tuesday, rain on the window. There are few better feelings than putting a warm plate of this in front of someone on a cold evening and watching their shoulders drop.
Quantity
250g
Quantity
125g
cubed
Quantity
1
Quantity
2-3 tablespoons
Quantity
pinch
Quantity
750g
peeled and sliced 3-4mm thick
Quantity
3 large
halved and thinly sliced
Quantity
2 cloves
finely chopped
Quantity
30g
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
150ml
Quantity
large handful
roughly chopped
Quantity
150g
grated
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
freshly grated
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| plain flour | 250g |
| cold unsalted buttercubed | 125g |
| egg yolk | 1 |
| cold water | 2-3 tablespoons |
| fine sea salt | pinch |
| waxy potatoespeeled and sliced 3-4mm thick | 750g |
| onionshalved and thinly sliced | 3 large |
| garlicfinely chopped | 2 cloves |
| unsalted butter | 30g |
| olive oil | 1 tablespoon |
| double cream | 150ml |
| flat-leaf parsleyroughly chopped | large handful |
| mature Cheddargrated | 150g |
| fine sea salt and black pepper | to taste |
| nutmegfreshly grated | to taste |
Rub the cold butter into the flour and salt with your fingertips until it looks like rough breadcrumbs. Some pieces of butter the size of small peas are fine, welcome even. They'll make the pastry short and flaky. Stir the egg yolk into the cold water and add it gradually, mixing with a knife until the dough just comes together. Don't overwork it. Gather into a flat disc, wrap in cling film, and rest in the fridge for at least thirty minutes. The pastry needs to relax. So do you.
While the pastry rests, melt the butter with the oil in a wide pan over a low heat. Add the onions and a good pinch of salt. Stir them through, then leave them alone. This is a slow job, twenty minutes at least, stirring now and then. You want them soft, sweet, and pale gold, not brown. The smell will change as they cook: sharp at first, then mellow, then faintly sweet, like something good is beginning. When they're there, stir in the garlic and cook for another minute. Set aside.
Bring a pan of well-salted water to the boil and cook the potato slices for five to six minutes, until they're tender but still holding their shape. You should be able to slide a knife through one without resistance, but it shouldn't crumble when you lift it. Drain gently and let them steam dry in the colander. Wet potatoes make a soggy filling, and a soggy filling is a disappointment nobody deserves.
Set the oven to 190C/170C fan. Roll the pastry out on a floured surface and line a 24cm loose-bottomed tart tin, pressing it into the edges without stretching. Leave a slight overhang. Prick the base with a fork, line with baking parchment and fill with baking beans or dried pulses. Bake for fifteen minutes, remove the beans and parchment, then bake for another five minutes until the base looks dry and feels sandy to the touch. Trim the overhang with a sharp knife.
Scatter the onions across the pastry base. Layer the potato slices over the top, overlapping them slightly and seasoning as you go with salt, pepper, and a grating of nutmeg. Tuck the chopped parsley between the layers. Pour the cream over slowly, letting it find its way down through the gaps. It won't cover everything, and it shouldn't. Scatter the grated Cheddar generously over the top. Don't be restrained with the cheese. This is a pie that depends on it.
Bake for twenty-five to thirty minutes, until the cheese is golden and bubbling at the edges and the potatoes have taken on some colour where they poke through. The kitchen will smell of butter and cheese and warm pastry, which is to say it will smell exactly right. Let the pie rest in the tin for ten minutes before cutting. It needs a moment to settle, and so does the cook. Serve warm, not hot, with a green salad dressed simply in olive oil and lemon.
1 serving (about 285g)
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