
Chef Joost
Appelkruimeltaart
The name gives away the whole pleasure: apples below, kruimel, crumbs, above, and no lattice pretending to be architecture when buttered rubble will do better.
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A tall Dutch apple pie built for birthdays and coffee: brown-sugar pastry, tart apples, cinnamon and raisins, all held under a woven lattice that says house, not patisserie.
In my grandmother's second notebook, birthdays were not written by age but by stains. Here a coffee ring, there a thumbprint of cinnamon, and beside the appeltaart a little warning in her hand: more apples than you think. She had learned that after de Ramp, when the first notebook drowned with half the kitchen and the second had to be rebuilt from memory. Recipes that survive a flood become very direct. They tell you what matters.
Appeltaart looks ordinary only to people who have not been invited to a Dutch birthday. But let me tell you a secret: this is the pie on the table when the chairs have been pulled into a circle and everyone is on a second coffee. Call it Hollandse if you like, but don't let Holland steal the whole orchard; this is a Dutch family-table dish from Groningen to Zeeland, each house certain its own slice is the correct one. It is not the flat French tarte, all display and restraint. The Dutch one is a tall house of pastry, packed with apples, cinnamon, raisins, and brown sugar. Exuberant cookery in a frugal country, there it is again.
The name does not pretend to mystery: appel, apple, taart, tart or pie. The method carries the secret instead. Use a sour, firm apple, Goudreinet if you can find it, because it keeps its edge while it softens. Chill the butter dough so it holds the high walls, scatter a little beschuitkruim, rusk crumb, on the bottom to drink the juices, and pile the filling higher than seems polite. Apples sink as they bake, and Dutch hospitality has never been measured flat. Hou het altijd simpel: cut it thick, pass the slagroom, and let the lattice be a little crooked.
Apple tarts appear in the Low Countries by the early sixteenth century; Een notabel boecxken van cokeryen, printed in 1514, includes appeltaerten with apples, sugar, butter, and spices long before the modern koffiehuis slice. The high-sided Dutch appeltaart became the home standard partly because firm sour apples such as Belle de Boskoop, first recorded in Boskoop in 1856, could soften without disappearing. Its cinnamon and raisin filling also shows how seventeenth-century spice trade turned once-expensive aromatics into ordinary Dutch cupboard habits.
Quantity
350g
plus more for dusting
Quantity
150g
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
225g
cubed, plus more for the tin
Quantity
1
beaten
Quantity
1.3kg
peeled, cored, cut into 1.5cm chunks
Quantity
100g
soaked for 10 minutes and drained
Quantity
80g
Quantity
2 1/2 teaspoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
1 yolk plus 1 teaspoon milk
mixed for brushing
Quantity
2 tablespoons
warmed
Quantity
250ml
softly whipped with 1 tablespoon sugar, to serve
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| plain flour (patentbloem)plus more for dusting | 350g |
| brown basterdsuiker (Dutch soft brown sugar) or light brown sugar | 150g |
| baking powder | 1 teaspoon |
| fine salt | 1/2 teaspoon |
| cold unsalted buttercubed, plus more for the tin | 225g |
| large eggbeaten | 1 |
| tart apples, preferably Goudreinet or Belle de Boskooppeeled, cored, cut into 1.5cm chunks | 1.3kg |
| raisinssoaked for 10 minutes and drained | 100g |
| brown basterdsuiker or light brown sugar | 80g |
| ground cinnamon | 2 1/2 teaspoons |
| lemon juice | 1 tablespoon |
| finely grated lemon zest | 1 teaspoon |
| cornstarch | 2 tablespoons |
| crushed beschuit (Dutch rusk) or fine dry breadcrumbs | 3 tablespoons |
| egg yolk and milkmixed for brushing | 1 yolk plus 1 teaspoon milk |
| apricot jam (optional)warmed | 2 tablespoons |
| whipping cream (optional)softly whipped with 1 tablespoon sugar, to serve | 250ml |
Stir the flour, 150g brown sugar, baking powder, and salt together in a large bowl. Rub in the cold butter with your fingertips until the mixture looks like rough crumbs with a few pea-sized pieces left, then add the beaten egg and bring it together into a firm dough. Stop as soon as it holds. Short pastry rewards restraint, which is convenient for a country that has made restraint into a household skill.
Divide off one third of the dough for the lattice, flatten both pieces into discs, wrap them, and chill for at least 45 minutes. Butter a 24cm springform tin and line the base with baking paper. The cold rest is not decoration. It lets the butter firm again so the pastry can climb the sides of the tin without slumping.
Peel, core, and cut the apples into sturdy 1.5cm chunks. Toss them with the drained raisins, 80g brown sugar, cinnamon, lemon juice, lemon zest, and cornstarch until the fruit is evenly coated and glossy. The chunks should look generous, not dainty; thin slices collapse too easily and leave you with sweet applesauce in a respectable coat.
Heat the oven to 175C (350F). Roll the larger piece of dough on a lightly floured surface and press it into the springform tin, covering the base and building sides about 5cm high. Patch any cracks with your fingers. Sprinkle the crushed beschuit or breadcrumbs over the base; they will drink the apple juices and keep the bottom from turning damp.
Pile the apple mixture into the pastry shell and press it down gently with your hands. It should rise higher than the rim in a confident mound, because the apples will settle as they bake. Roll the remaining dough and cut it into strips about 2cm wide, then weave them over the top in a simple lattice. Brush the lattice with the egg yolk and milk.
Bake on the lower-middle rack for 70 to 75 minutes, until the pastry is deep golden brown and the apple juices bubble slowly in the gaps of the lattice. If the top darkens too quickly, lay a loose sheet of foil over it. Brush the hot lattice with warmed apricot jam if you like a gentle shine, then leave the appeltaart in the tin for at least 90 minutes before releasing the ring.
Release the springform ring and move the pie to a board or plate. Cut thick wedges and serve at room temperature or just barely warm, with softly whipped slagroom, whipped cream, alongside if the table asks for it. Not on top like a hat. Beside it, where it can do its work.
1 serving (about 265g)
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