Ham and Cheese Brioche Rolls

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Stand mixer with dough hook
• •Rolling pin
• •9 by 13-inch baking pan or rimmed sheet pan
• •Pastry brush
• •Instant-read thermometer

Instructions

1. 1

   Combine dry ingredients

   In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, whisk together the flour, sugar, yeast, and salt. Make a well in the center. The yeast and salt should not touch directly until the mixing begins, as salt can inhibit yeast activity before they're properly hydrated.

2. 2

   Add eggs and milk

   Add the four room-temperature eggs and the lukewarm milk to the well. Mix on low speed until a shaggy dough forms, about two minutes. Increase to medium speed and knead for eight to ten minutes. The dough will slap against the sides of the bowl, then gradually begin to pull away and climb the hook. It should look smooth but still quite sticky.

   Room temperature eggs are essential. Cold eggs will shock the yeast and prevent the gluten from developing properly.
3. 3

   Incorporate the butter

   With the mixer running on medium-low, add the softened butter one tablespoon at a time, waiting until each piece mostly disappears before adding the next. This takes patience, perhaps ten minutes. The dough will look hopelessly greasy and broken at first. Keep mixing. It will come together into a glossy, elastic mass that pulls cleanly from the bowl. When you stretch a small piece, it should form a thin, translucent window without tearing.

   If the dough refuses to come together after fifteen minutes, the butter may have been too cold or the room too warm. Refrigerate for ten minutes, then continue kneading.
4. 4

   First rise

   Transfer the dough to a large, lightly oiled bowl. Cover tightly with plastic wrap. Let rise at room temperature until doubled in size, about two hours. The dough will be puffy and soft, jiggling when you tap the bowl.

5. 5

   Refrigerate overnight

   Press the dough down to deflate it, re-cover tightly, and refrigerate for at least eight hours or overnight. This cold fermentation develops flavor and firms the butter, making the dough infinitely easier to roll. Do not skip this step. Warm brioche dough is unmanageable.

   The dough can refrigerate for up to three days. The longer it rests, the more complex the flavor becomes.
6. 6

   Roll out the dough

   Remove dough from refrigerator and let rest at room temperature for fifteen minutes to take off the chill. On a lightly floured surface, roll into a large rectangle roughly 16 by 12 inches, with the long side facing you. Work quickly. If the dough resists or springs back stubbornly, cover it with a towel and let it rest five minutes before continuing.

7. 7

   Layer the filling

   Spread the Dijon mustard evenly over the dough, leaving a one-inch border along the far long edge. Layer the ham slices to cover the mustard, overlapping slightly. Scatter the grated Gruyère evenly over the ham, then sprinkle with thyme leaves. The filling should look generous but not mountainous.

8. 8

   Roll and slice

   Starting from the long edge nearest you, roll the dough into a tight cylinder, tucking as you go to keep tension. Pinch the seam firmly to seal. Using a sharp knife or unflavored dental floss, cut the log into twelve equal rounds, each about one and a quarter inches thick. A gentle sawing motion prevents the filling from squeezing out.

9. 9

   Arrange and proof

   Grease a 9 by 13-inch baking pan or arrange the rolls on a parchment-lined sheet pan, spacing them about an inch apart. They will expand to touch during proofing and baking, creating pull-apart rolls with soft sides. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rise in a warm spot until puffy and nearly doubled, forty-five minutes to one hour. They should spring back slowly when poked.

10. 10

    Bake until golden

    Preheat your oven to 375°F during the final fifteen minutes of proofing. Brush the tops of the rolls generously with the egg wash, taking care to cover all exposed dough. Sprinkle with flaky sea salt. Bake until deeply golden brown and the internal temperature reaches 190°F, twenty-two to twenty-five minutes. The kitchen will smell impossibly good. The cheese may bubble and escape in places. This is a feature, not a flaw.

    If the tops brown too quickly, tent loosely with foil for the final ten minutes.
11. 11

    Rest and serve

    Let the rolls cool in the pan for ten minutes. This rest allows the cheese to set slightly, so it pulls in stretchy strands rather than running out when you tear them apart. Serve warm from the pan, inviting everyone to pull their own roll free. These are at their absolute peak within an hour of baking, but remain excellent at room temperature for a picnic or potluck.

Chef Tips

• •Seek out good ham from the deli counter, sliced thin enough to read a newspaper through. Thick slabs of ham create an unpleasant chewy layer rather than melding with the bread.
• •Gruyère is traditional and melts beautifully, but a sharp aged cheddar or Comté works splendidly. Avoid pre-shredded cheese, which contains anti-caking agents that interfere with melting.
• •The egg wash is your friend. Apply it with generosity and intention. A thin coat produces a matte finish; a thick coat creates that bakery-window lacquer everyone admires.
• •For a crowd, make two batches and bake in separate pans. These reheat gently in a 300°F oven, wrapped in foil, for about fifteen minutes.

Advance Preparation

• •The brioche dough can be made up to three days ahead and kept refrigerated. The flavor develops beautifully with time.
• •Rolls can be assembled through the slicing stage, arranged in the pan, covered tightly, and refrigerated overnight. Let them come to room temperature and proof for one hour before baking.
• •Baked rolls freeze well for up to one month. Thaw at room temperature, then warm in a 300°F oven for ten minutes to revive them.
• •For a morning gathering, do all the work the day before. Refrigerate the assembled unbaked rolls overnight, then bake them fresh while coffee brews.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 roll (about 95g)