
Chef Dean
Apple Cinnamon Pancakes
Tender buttermilk pancakes folded with butter-glazed apple pieces and warm cinnamon, stacked high and drowning in maple syrup. This is Sunday morning the way it ought to be.
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A towering golden casserole of custard-soaked bread, smoky ham, and melted cheese that you assemble the night before and bake while the coffee brews. This is the dish that makes Christmas morning feel unhurried.
The strata belongs to that noble category of American dishes born from thrift and perfected through generations of Sunday morning cooking. Italian immigrants brought the concept of layered bread dishes. Resourceful American cooks transformed day-old bread and leftover ham into something far greater than the sum of its parts.
What makes this dish extraordinary is what happens overnight in your refrigerator. The bread cubes drink in the seasoned custard, swelling and softening until the boundaries between bread and egg dissolve into something new. By morning, you have a unified mass ready to puff dramatically in the oven's heat.
I've served this strata on Christmas morning for more years than I care to count. The rhythm never changes: assemble after dinner on Christmas Eve, slide it into the oven when you wake, and gather around the table while the edges turn golden and the center sets into silky custard. The smell alone will pull everyone from their beds.
This is not fussy cooking. It is generous cooking, the kind that feeds a crowd without requiring you to stand at the stove while everyone else opens presents.
Quantity
1 pound (about 12 cups)
cut into 1-inch cubes
Quantity
2 tablespoons, plus more for the dish
Quantity
1 medium
diced
Quantity
12 ounces
cut into 1/2-inch cubes
Quantity
3 cups (about 12 ounces)
shredded
Quantity
1 cup (about 4 ounces)
shredded
Quantity
8
Quantity
2 1/2 cups
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
freshly grated
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
freshly ground
Quantity
2 tablespoons
minced
Quantity
1 teaspoon
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| day-old challah or crusty French breadcut into 1-inch cubes | 1 pound (about 12 cups) |
| unsalted butter | 2 tablespoons, plus more for the dish |
| yellow oniondiced | 1 medium |
| smoked hamcut into 1/2-inch cubes | 12 ounces |
| Gruyère cheeseshredded | 3 cups (about 12 ounces) |
| sharp white cheddar cheeseshredded | 1 cup (about 4 ounces) |
| large eggs | 8 |
| whole milk | 2 1/2 cups |
| heavy cream | 1 cup |
| Dijon mustard | 2 tablespoons |
| nutmegfreshly grated | 1/2 teaspoon |
| kosher salt | 1 teaspoon |
| black pepperfreshly ground | 1/2 teaspoon |
| fresh chivesminced | 2 tablespoons |
| fresh thyme leaves | 1 teaspoon |
Spread the bread cubes in a single layer on two large baking sheets. Let them sit at room temperature for several hours, or place them in a 250°F oven for twenty minutes until dry but not toasted. The bread should feel firm and slightly stale. Fresh bread absorbs too much custard and turns to mush.
Generously butter a 9x13-inch baking dish, making sure to coat the corners where sticking is most likely. A well-buttered dish produces golden, crispy edges that everyone will fight over.
Melt two tablespoons of butter in a skillet over medium heat. Add the diced onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and translucent, about five minutes. You want sweetness, not color. Set aside to cool slightly.
Toss the Gruyère and cheddar together in a bowl. The Gruyère provides that distinctive nutty, slightly sweet flavor while the sharp cheddar adds tang and helps the mixture melt smoothly. Reserve one cup of this mixture for the top.
Scatter half the bread cubes in the prepared dish. Distribute half the ham, half the sautéed onion, and half the cheese mixture (minus that reserved cup) over the bread. Repeat with remaining bread, ham, onion, and cheese. Press down gently with your palm to compact the layers slightly.
Crack the eggs into a large bowl and whisk until the yolks and whites are fully combined. Add the milk, cream, Dijon mustard, nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Whisk vigorously until the mustard dissolves completely and the mixture looks uniform. Stir in the chives and thyme.
Pour the custard slowly and evenly over the layered bread. Use your palm or a spatula to press the bread down, submerging any cubes that bob to the surface. Every piece needs contact with the liquid. Sprinkle the reserved cup of cheese over the top.
Cover the dish tightly with plastic wrap, pressing it directly onto the surface to keep the bread submerged. Refrigerate for at least four hours, preferably overnight and up to twenty-four hours. The longer it soaks, the more custardy the result.
Remove the strata from the refrigerator thirty to forty-five minutes before baking. A cold dish going into a hot oven bakes unevenly, with overcooked edges and a raw center. Let it lose the refrigerator chill while the oven preheats.
Heat your oven to 350°F. Remove the plastic wrap and bake until the strata puffs dramatically, the top turns deep golden brown, and a knife inserted in the center comes out clean, fifty to sixty minutes. The edges should pull away from the dish slightly and the cheese on top should be bubbling and bronzed.
Let the strata rest for ten to fifteen minutes before cutting. It will deflate slightly as it cools, this is expected. The resting period allows the custard to set fully so your slices hold together rather than collapsing into a heap. Cut generous squares and serve warm.
1 serving (about 380g)
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