
Chef Thomas
Anglesey Eggs
Eggs bedded into leek-flecked mash under a blanket of sharp cheese sauce, baked until golden and bubbling. A Welsh supper dish that proves the simplest things are usually the best.
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Whole mackerel scored and smeared with a sharp mustard dressing, blistered under a fierce grill and finished with lemon. A ten-minute supper for a warm evening when the fish is good and the appetite is honest.
The mackerel at the market this morning were fat and firm and still had that iridescent shimmer, blue-green-silver, like petrol on a puddle. That's how you know. When they're fresh, really fresh, they look like they're still moving. I bought four and carried them home in paper.
Mackerel wants heat and sharpness. The oiliness of the fish is the thing people flinch at, but it's also the thing that makes it worth cooking. A hot grill crisps the skin and renders some of that richness out, and a smear of mustard cuts through what's left. English mustard for the kick, Dijon for the smoothness. Lemon over the top, enough to make your fingers sting. The whole thing takes less time than setting the table.
This is a June supper, or July, when mackerel are running and the evenings are long enough that you're still eating in daylight. I wrote it down in the notebook years ago: mackerel, mustard, lemon, Tuesday. It's become one of those meals I come back to when I want something that tastes clean and direct, like the sea got involved in dinner. There are few better feelings than putting a plate of grilled fish in front of someone on a warm evening and watching them reach for the bread before you've sat down.
A recipe is a conversation, not a contract. If you prefer one mustard to the other, use that. If you've got a handful of capers or some cornichons, chop them through. The fish is the thing. Get the best you can.
Quantity
2
gutted and cleaned
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1
juiced, plus extra wedges to serve
Quantity
a good glug
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
small handful
roughly chopped
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| whole mackerelgutted and cleaned | 2 |
| English mustard | 1 tablespoon |
| Dijon mustard | 1 tablespoon |
| lemonjuiced, plus extra wedges to serve | 1 |
| good olive oil | a good glug |
| fine sea salt | to taste |
| black pepper | to taste |
| flat-leaf parsley (optional)roughly chopped | small handful |
Lay the mackerel on a board and slash each side three or four times on the diagonal, cutting down to the bone but not through it. The slashes let the heat in and the mustard through. Without them, the skin blisters and the flesh underneath stays pale. Pat the fish dry with kitchen paper. Wet skin under a grill doesn't crisp. It steams.
In a small bowl, stir together the English mustard and the Dijon. The English brings heat; the Dijon brings depth and a little sweetness. Add a squeeze of lemon juice and a pour of olive oil, enough to loosen it into something you can spread with the back of a spoon. Season with salt and pepper. Taste it. It should be sharp and warm and make your nose prickle slightly.
Smear the mustard mixture over both sides of each mackerel, working it into the scored cuts with your fingers. Don't be precious about it. The fish should be generously coated, not painted with a pastry brush. Rub a little oil onto the bars of your grill tray as well, or line it with foil and oil that. Mackerel sticks if you let it.
Get the grill as hot as it will go. Put the mackerel on the tray, skin side up, about ten centimetres from the element. Grill for four minutes or so, until the skin has blistered and charred in places and the mustard has turned golden and caught at the edges. Turn the fish carefully (a fish slice and a bit of confidence) and give the other side three to four minutes more. The flesh should be opaque and just pulling away from the bone. If you press a finger to the thickest part, it should feel firm but give a little.
Lift the mackerel onto warm plates. Squeeze lemon over each fish generously. The juice hits the hot skin and sizzles, and the smell that comes up is the whole point of this meal. Scatter a little parsley if you have it, though the fish doesn't need much else. Serve with bread to mop up the juices, or a pile of salad leaves dressed with nothing but lemon and oil. A boiled potato, halved and buttered, if you want something more. We're only making dinner.
1 serving (about 200g)
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