
Chef Dimitra
Anginares a la Polita, Constantinople Artichokes (Αγκινάρες αλά Πολίτα)
Constantinople's spring artichokes, pale and lemony, braised with potato, carrot, peas, dill, and enough olive oil to make the sauce shine.
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Greek Macedonia's cabbage and rice pot is plain winter food at its best: soft cabbage, tomato, olive oil, and rice added late so it stays loose.
Greek Macedonia's lahanorizo is cabbage rice, the winter pot that makes a meal from one firm cabbage, a little tomato, olive oil, and rice. It should be soft and melting, not soupy, with the grains loose enough to move through the cabbage instead of clumping into paste.
The method is simple, but it has one rule. Cook the cabbage down first, until it has given up its water and turned sweet, then add the rice. If you rush the rice in early, it drinks unevenly and turns the whole pot thick and tired. Add it late and the dish stays alive.
This is nistisimo food, fit for the fasting table, but it never feels like punishment. Good olive oil, and patience. In my Thessaloniki kitchen, this is the pot for the cold weekdays when the market cabbages are tight and pale green, and nobody needs a speech before dinner.
Lahanorizo belongs to the cabbage-and-grain pots of northern mainland Greece, especially Greek Macedonia and Thrace, where cabbage stored well through cold winters and stretched a household meal cheaply. The tomato-red version became common after preserved tomato and tomato paste entered everyday Greek cooking in the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries; older pots could be white, finished with lemon and herbs. Its place on the Orthodox fasting table is central: no meat and no dairy, only vegetables, rice, olive oil, and restraint.
Quantity
1kg
cored and thinly sliced
Quantity
80ml
plus more to finish
Quantity
1 large, about 180g
finely chopped
Quantity
1 medium, about 100g
grated
Quantity
2
finely chopped
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
250g
Quantity
180g
rinsed
Quantity
650ml
Quantity
1 1/2 teaspoons
plus more to taste
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
2 tablespoons
chopped
Quantity
1 tablespoon
chopped
Quantity
1
cut into wedges
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| green cabbagecored and thinly sliced | 1kg |
| extra virgin Koroneiki olive oilplus more to finish | 80ml |
| yellow onionfinely chopped | 1 large, about 180g |
| carrotgrated | 1 medium, about 100g |
| garlic clovesfinely chopped | 2 |
| tomato paste | 1 tablespoon |
| crushed tomatoes or grated ripe tomatoes | 250g |
| Greek Carolina ricerinsed | 180g |
| hot water or light vegetable stock | 650ml |
| fine sea saltplus more to taste | 1 1/2 teaspoons |
| freshly ground black pepper | 1/2 teaspoon |
| sweet paprika | 1/2 teaspoon |
| fresh dillchopped | 2 tablespoons |
| flat-leaf parsleychopped | 1 tablespoon |
| lemon (optional)cut into wedges | 1 |
Set a wide heavy pot over medium heat and add the olive oil. Stir in the onion and carrot with a pinch of the salt, and cook for 6 to 8 minutes until the onion is soft and sweet-smelling, not browned. Add the garlic for the last minute.
Add the sliced cabbage by handfuls, turning it through the oil as it wilts. Sprinkle in the remaining salt, cover the pot, and cook for 12 to 15 minutes, stirring twice, until the cabbage has dropped down and turned glossy. This is the step that decides the dish: the cabbage must soften first, before the rice goes in, or the rice swells while the cabbage is still throwing water and the pot turns heavy.
Stir in the tomato paste and cook it against the bottom of the pot for 1 minute, just until it darkens a little. Add the crushed tomatoes, pepper, and paprika, then simmer uncovered for 5 minutes so the tomato tastes cooked, not sharp.
Stir in the rinsed rice, then pour in the hot water or stock. The liquid should sit just below the cabbage, not drown it. Bring to a gentle boil, lower the heat, cover, and cook for 18 to 20 minutes, stirring once halfway through, until the rice is tender but still loose.
Take the pot off the heat and let it rest, covered, for 10 minutes. Stir in the dill and parsley, taste for salt, and finish with a thread of olive oil. Serve warm with lemon wedges, because cabbage likes that last bright squeeze.
1 serving (about 410g)
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