Goguma-jorim (Sweet Potato Braise)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Wide 10 to 12-inch skillet or shallow heavy pot with lid
• •Wooden spoon
• •Skewer or cake tester for checking tenderness

Instructions

1. 1

   Cut and soak

   Scrub the sweet potatoes well and cut them into 1 1/4-inch chunks, leaving the skin on if it is clean and thin. Soak the pieces in cold water for 10 minutes, then drain and pat dry. The soak pulls off loose starch so the glaze stays clear and glossy instead of cloudy.

   Keep the pieces close in size. Small pieces collapse before large ones are tender, and then you have a sweet mash, not jorim.
2. 2

   Start the pot

   Heat the neutral oil in a wide skillet or shallow pot over medium heat. Add the drained sweet potatoes and turn them for 2 minutes, just until the surfaces look lightly coated and a little deeper in color. This small oil step helps the edges hold their shape during the braise.

3. 3

   Add seasoning

   Add 3/4 cup water, soy sauce, rice syrup, brown sugar, mirin, and sliced garlic. Stir once, gently, so every piece meets the seasoning. The liquid should come about one-third of the way up the sweet potatoes, not cover them. Too much liquid makes them waterlogged before it ever reduces.

4. 4

   Simmer gently

   Cover the pan and simmer over medium-low heat for 10 to 14 minutes, turning the pieces once halfway through. A skewer should enter the thickest piece with slight resistance. Do not boil hard. Sweet potato breaks when it is bullied.

5. 5

   Reduce the glaze

   Uncover the pan and raise the heat to medium. Simmer 5 to 8 minutes, spooning the sauce over the pieces and shaking the pan instead of stirring hard. Stop when the liquid has reduced to a shiny glaze that coats the bottom of the pan in a thin layer. If the pan dries before the sweet potatoes are tender, add 2 tablespoons water and continue gently.

6. 6

   Finish off heat

   Turn off the heat. Add the sesame oil and sesame seeds, and the nuts if using. Toss by lifting and turning with a spoon, not mashing. Taste one piece. It should be sweet first because goguma is sweet, but the soy should keep it from tasting like dessert.

7. 7

   Cool and serve

   Let the goguma-jorim cool for at least 10 minutes before serving. The glaze tightens as it cools and clings better to the corners. Serve warm, at room temperature, or chilled as banchan with rice, kimchi, and something sharper beside it.

Chef Tips

• •Korean goguma are denser and sweeter than many orange American sweet potatoes. If using orange sweet potatoes, cut them a little larger and check early, because they soften faster.
• •Rice syrup gives the cleanest glossy finish. Honey can be used, but add it only at the end off heat, because it burns quickly and can dominate the sweet potato.
• •This is not mat-tang, the fried candied sweet potato. Keep the oil low, the soy present, and the glaze thin enough to coat rather than crack.

Advance Preparation

• •Goguma-jorim keeps well for 4 days in a covered container in the refrigerator. Let it come to room temperature before serving, or warm it briefly in a small pan with 1 tablespoon water.
• •Cut and soak the sweet potatoes up to 4 hours ahead, then keep them covered in cold water. Drain and dry them right before cooking so the oil does not spit.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 170g)