Godeungeo-gui (Korean Grilled Mackerel)

Mackerel is a fish for the market and the month. Buy it when the flesh looks firm, the skin shines blue-silver, and the fishmonger has not had to work hard to sell it. In autumn and early winter it carries more fat, and that fat is why godeungeo-gui is loved. Salt, dry heat, and rice are enough.

This dish lives or dies by drying the fish. Salt pulls out surface moisture and seasons the flesh through; wiping it dry lets the skin blister instead of tearing and steaming against the pan. People blame the fish for smelling strong when the fault is often a wet fillet in a lukewarm pan. Heat the pan properly. Lay the skin down. Then leave it alone longer than your nervous hand wants to.

My teacher, Master Seong-nyeo, measured salt even for fish, which older cooks often waved over with their fingers. Notebook 18 says 1 1/4 teaspoons fine sea salt for 500 grams cleaned mackerel, rested one hour. 손맛 is real. I still measure it, so it can be handed on. Tonight this asks for rice ready before the fish is done, because godeungeo-gui waits badly and a hungry table waits worse.