
Chef Jeong-sun
Agwi-jjigae (Monkfish Stew)
A Masan coast monkfish stew with firm white meat, gelatin at the bones, soybean sprouts for crunch, and a red broth seasoned to carry the fish, not bury it.
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A budget weeknight jjigae built from pork, potato, zucchini, and one honest spoon of gochujang, with the paste cooked in fat first so it deepens instead of stinging.
Gochujang-jjigae lives or dies in the first five minutes. If you drop gochujang straight into water, the stew tastes sharp and flat. Cook it briefly in pork fat first, and it becomes rounder, darker, and more willing to carry the potatoes and zucchini without shouting over them.
This is not a delicate soup. It is a weeknight jjigae, the kind that lets a small piece of pork feed a table when rice is already waiting. Still, don't mistake simple for careless. Cut the potato small enough to cook through, cut the zucchini thicker so it doesn't collapse, and add the tofu late so it warms instead of breaking into the broth.
Notebook 19 says two tablespoons of gochujang for three cups of broth, then adjust with soup soy sauce, not more paste. That measure matters. Too much gochujang turns every spoonful into the same red taste, and Korean cooking has enough pride not to do that. Let the pork taste like pork, the potato taste sweet and soft, the zucchini stay green at the edge.
손맛 is real; I measure it anyway. Taste at the end, then write down the brand of gochujang you used and whether it needed the last half teaspoon of salt. The next tub will be sweeter or saltier, and memory is a borrowed bowl.
Gochujang itself appears in Korean records by the late Joseon period, after chili peppers had entered Korea and became part of fermented sauces and kimchi. Gochujang-jjigae is an everyday home stew rather than a court dish, shaped by household jang (fermented condiments), cheap cuts of pork, and vegetables such as potato and zucchini that made one pot stretch across a rice table. Modern versions often use pork belly, but lean shoulder, canned tuna, or mushrooms also appear in home kitchens depending on budget and season.
Quantity
250g
cut into 2 cm bite-size pieces
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
minced
Quantity
3 cups
Quantity
1 medium, about 200g
peeled and cut into 1.5 cm chunks
Quantity
1/2 medium
sliced 1 cm thick
Quantity
1/2 medium
cut into thick half-moons
Quantity
150g
cut into bite-size cubes
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1
sliced on the diagonal
Quantity
2
cut into 3 cm lengths
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| pork belly or pork shouldercut into 2 cm bite-size pieces | 250g |
| neutral oil (optional) | 1 teaspoon |
| gochujang (Korean red chili paste) | 2 tablespoons |
| gochugaru (Korean chili flakes) (optional) | 1 teaspoon |
| garlicminced | 1 tablespoon |
| anchovy-kelp broth, rice-rinsing water, or water | 3 cups |
| potatopeeled and cut into 1.5 cm chunks | 1 medium, about 200g |
| onionsliced 1 cm thick | 1/2 medium |
| zucchini (aehobak)cut into thick half-moons | 1/2 medium |
| firm tofucut into bite-size cubes | 150g |
| guk-ganjang (Korean soup soy sauce) or regular soy sauce | 1 tablespoon |
| fish sauce or saeujeot (salted shrimp) (optional) | 1 teaspoon |
| green chilisliced on the diagonal | 1 |
| scallionscut into 3 cm lengths | 2 |
| toasted sesame oil (optional) | 1/2 teaspoon |
| fine sea salt (optional) | 1/4 teaspoon |
Set a ttukbaegi or small heavy pot over medium heat. Add the pork belly and cook 4 to 5 minutes, stirring now and then, until the edges turn opaque and a tablespoon or so of fat gathers in the bottom. If you are using lean pork shoulder, add the teaspoon of oil first. This fat is not extra richness for its own sake; it is what will soften the gochujang's raw bite.
Lower the heat to medium-low. Add the gochujang, gochugaru if using, and minced garlic, then stir constantly for 60 to 90 seconds. The paste should darken slightly and smell rounder, but it must not scorch. If it sticks hard to the pot, splash in 1 tablespoon of broth and keep stirring.
Pour in the broth slowly, scraping the bottom of the pot so the cooked paste dissolves into the liquid. Add the potato and bring the stew to a steady simmer. Cook 10 to 12 minutes, until a chopstick goes halfway into a potato piece with some resistance. Potato goes first because it needs time, and because it sweetens the broth as it cooks.
Add the onion and zucchini and simmer 5 to 6 minutes. Keep the stew moving gently, not violently. Onion should soften, zucchini should bend at the edge but still hold its green shape. If you boil it hard now, you get mush and no one at the table will thank you for speed.
Stir in the soup soy sauce and the fish sauce or saeujeot if using. Taste before adding salt. Gochujang brands vary widely, so the last seasoning must come from the spoon, not habit. Add up to 1/4 teaspoon salt only if the broth tastes full but a little quiet.
Slide in the tofu and simmer 3 minutes, just until warmed through. Stir around it, not through it, so the cubes stay whole. Tofu is there to carry the broth gently; treat it roughly and the stew turns cloudy and broken.
Scatter the green chili and scallions over the top and simmer 1 more minute. Turn off the heat and add the small finish of sesame oil if you like that roundness. Carry the pot to the table with rice and one clean banchan, something cool or crisp. This stew is strong enough; the table around it should know restraint.
1 serving (about 415g)
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