
Chef Jeong-sun
Baechu-jeon (배추전, Napa Cabbage Pancake)
A Gyeongsang home pancake made from one whole napa cabbage leaf at a time, flattened at the rib, brushed in thin salted batter, and fried until sweet, tender, and quietly crisp at the edges.
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Plain gim brushed with salted glutinous rice paste, dried until stiff, then fried for a few seconds into light, crackling crisps that belong beside tea, makgeolli, or a rice table.
Gim-bugak lives or dies before it ever reaches the oil. The rice paste must be thin enough to brush, thick enough to cling, and the coated gim must dry all the way through. Rush that drying and the oil will spit at you. Dry it properly and the pieces puff in seconds, light as paper but with enough rice body to bite cleanly.
My teacher made bugak when students thought snacks were too small to measure. She did not scold. She put three trays in front of us: one with paste too thick, one too thin, one correct. 눈동냥, 귀동냥. Borrowing with the eyes and ears. The correct sheet dried flat, not heavy, and when fried it curled at the edges without turning greasy. That was the lesson.
This is a humble Korean snack, also an anju (food for drinking), and temple kitchens have long understood its value because seaweed carries savor without meat. Use plain unseasoned gim, not the oiled and salted sheets meant for eating with rice. Measure the paste, season lightly, and let the seaweed taste like the seaweed. The hard work tonight is patience, not strength.
Bugak refers to Korean fried crisps made by coating vegetables or seaweed with glutinous rice paste, drying them, then frying them quickly; it appears strongly in temple cooking, where drying and frying preserved seasonal foods and made savory dishes without meat. Gim-bugak became widely familiar beyond temple and regional home kitchens as a snack and packaged anju in the late twentieth and early twenty-first centuries, but the method remains an old preservation habit: coat, dry, store, fry only when the table needs it.
Quantity
8 large sheets
kept dry and flat
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
1 cup
divided
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
plus more for sprinkling if desired
Quantity
2 cups
grapeseed, canola, or rice bran
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| plain unseasoned gim (dried laver)kept dry and flat | 8 large sheets |
| glutinous rice flour (chapssalgaru) | 1/2 cup |
| waterdivided | 1 cup |
| fine sea salt | 1/2 teaspoon |
| toasted sesame seeds (optional)plus more for sprinkling if desired | 1 teaspoon |
| neutral frying oilgrapeseed, canola, or rice bran | 2 cups |
Whisk the glutinous rice flour with 1/2 cup of the water in a small bowl until smooth. Bring the remaining 1/2 cup water and the salt to a simmer in a small pot, then whisk in the rice flour slurry. Cook over low heat for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring constantly, until glossy and thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. If it stands up like dough, it is too thick; whisk in 1 tablespoon hot water. If it runs like milk, cook it a little longer.
Scrape the paste into a bowl and let it cool for 10 minutes, stirring once or twice so the surface does not skin over. Stir in 1 teaspoon toasted sesame seeds. Taste a dot of paste. It should be lightly salted, not snack-food salty, because the seaweed has its own savor.
Lay one sheet of gim rough side up on a dry board. Brush a thin, even layer of paste over the whole sheet, about 1 tablespoon paste per sheet. Leave no wet lumps. The brush should leave the seaweed shiny, not buried. Sprinkle with a few more sesame seeds if you like, pressing them gently into the paste.
Set the pasted sheets on wire racks or parchment-lined trays in a single layer. Dry at room temperature for 5 to 6 hours, turning once if the edges curl, until the sheets are stiff and no longer cool or tacky to the touch. In humid weather, dry them in a 170 F oven with the door cracked for 45 to 75 minutes, turning once. The sheet must be dry before frying. This is not a polite suggestion; wet paste makes the oil spit.
Use kitchen scissors to cut each dried sheet into 4 squares, or into smaller rectangles if you want drinking snacks. Keep the pieces stacked loosely, not pressed flat. If any piece still bends softly instead of snapping at the corner, return it to the drying rack.
Pour the oil into a small heavy pot to a depth of about 4 cm. Heat to 340 F to 350 F. No thermometer? Drop in a tiny corner of dried coated gim; it should bubble at once and rise within 2 seconds, without darkening immediately. Keep the heat steady. Gim is thin, and it goes from pale to bitter fast.
Fry 2 or 3 pieces at a time, paste side down first, for 3 to 5 seconds, then turn once for another 2 to 3 seconds. They should puff, curl lightly, and turn a pale beige-gold where the rice paste sits. Lift them out before the seaweed darkens. This is the whole frying time. Do not wait for a deeper color, because deeper means burnt gim.
Drain on a rack set over a tray, not on a flat pile of paper towels, so the oil does not soften the underside. Taste one after 2 minutes. If it needs salt, sprinkle a very small pinch while still warm. Serve the same day with tea, beer, makgeolli, or a plain bowl of rice. Write down your drying time, because your kitchen's humidity is part of this recipe.
1 serving (about 32g)
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